Trouble in Paradise part 2

This is a continuation of last week’s post on same household dog fights.  As I mentioned on that post, having to manage and live with dogs that are injuring one another is not a picnic.  It can be very stressful for the dogs as well as the people. Also, depending on the severity and frequency of the fights, one needs to consider the imminent danger to people. I once consulted with a young couple that had a baby and two of their four dogs were getting into bad fights.  One of the things that made this case so complicated is that the husband did not want to do much in the way of managing the dogs or training and refused to let go of the dog that was causing the injuries.  The wife was mortified to learn that the chances of their child being in between two fighting dogs once he started crawling was definitively a possibility. Of course, this sounds like an extreme case when it comes to someone getting seriously hurt; not all cases are like this.

To begin with, I suggest that dogs are taught to be comfortable wearing basket muzzles so that when they are not being closely supervised and in proximity of each other at least they will not hurt one another.  The idea is to get the dog comfortable with wearing the muzzle, and not simply plop the muzzle on and be done with it. It goes without saying that people must be very diligent in making sure that the dogs are wearing the muzzles.  I know that it’s really hard to be on top of everything all the time, but the reality is that this is what it takes to have dogs that are fighting regain an ability to co-exist peacefully.

Both dogs need to also learn some basic obedience so that they can reliably go to their crate or a bed when asked to do so. They must also learn to take turns going in and out of any door or exiting the car. Since these are amongst the typical situations where dog fights take place.

If the fights have been a result of either one of the dogs guarding an object be it a toy, food, snack, they should not be allowed to have any of these items together.  If what they guard is a location such as a bed or a person, things change a bit here, but in essence the same rule applies.

Once these measures are put in place, dogs need to be taught that in fact, their nemesis actually produces really good stuff for them!  One can achieve this by the careful orchestration of presenting valuable resources only when the other dog is present.  Again, really careful management must be in place.  I would argue that while doable to do it with only one person, it is always best to have one handler per dog.

Now, if one of the dogs is the one that is constantly harassing the other, intimidating or controlling the other dog’s movements we must then also be super proactive in teaching the bully that any intimidation will result in social isolation. This protocol works wonders when again folks have been taught what to look for and are willing and able to follow up implementing the protocol every single time the dog engages in any intimidating behaviors towards the less fortunate dog.

Please forget the nonsense of “supporting the alpha” advice that is still given by many veterinarians and dog trainers that have not looked into the scientific literature regarding social dominance. Moreover, how does one know which one is the “alpha”?  As some of my clients have attested they are confused as to which dog is the alpha as they try to implement rules and protocols that require they support the alpha.  I cannot say this loud enough!  Not only will these measures not work, but most likely they will continue to make the life of one of the dogs (the one that folks consider the subordinate) a living hell.  How unfair is this?

When it comes to behavior we must think critically.  Rarely is behavior simple in its expression. Dogs are one of the most sophisticated species when it comes to their social relations. For us to imply that we can delve into the intricacies of their complex social relationships with simplistic advice- such as being the leader and supporting the alpha, is really a rotten proposition.

If you have dogs that are fighting in your home, consider carefully all your options. I disagree that love is all that dogs need in order to resolve this issues.  Sure, love is nice but they need understanding of who they are as a species and as individuals.  They need our care and for us to be true advocates so that they can remain safe and thrive in the household.

Re-homing is a good option when the family realizes they do not have what it takes to tackle all what it will take to make the dogs be in good terms again. And if an appropriate alternative is found - which is really not that easy.  On occasion euthanasia, might be a consideration. In my professional opinion, all possibilities need to be explored with good judgement as well as honesty as one- size- fits- all approach is not really a consideration.

Should you muzzle your dog?

While dogs that wear muzzles often carry the stigma of being “bad” or “dangerous” and while that is really unfortunate, muzzles indeed are tools that can often not only keep people and other animals safe, but they can also - believe it or not, improve the life of the dog wearing it.

ANY dog - and I cannot emphasis this enough, can bite and will bite if he/she thinks that biting is the best option to defend itself. Or as the case might be, if in some way biting has been reinforced in the past most likely and under very similar circumstances the dog will bite again if not taught to do something different (a better “choice” -let’s call it). This “better behavior choice” must also address the motivation for the dog biting in the first place.

In other words, biting has proven to work for the dog in the past.  Dogs use strategies that have “worked” for them and abandon those that don’t.  Hey, let’s give them credit!  How often can we say that about ourselves as we appear to stumble on the same mistakes over and over again.

The question as to when to muzzle a dog also should take into consideration legal implications. Of course, this might vary depending on the local dog laws, but what I can say confidently - and without giving legal advice, is that a dog with a bite history under his belt would probably represent more of a liability should the owner be sued than one that is a first-time offender.

Another important consideration in deciding if a dog should use a muzzle and where it’s in relation to a dog having badly hurt or constantly hurt another dog.  It is a fact that dogs will get into fights (just like people get into arguments) however most of these fights are not so severe (and I am not talking here about the emotional toll of being “jumped on”) that warrants the dog going to the vet to get stitches for multiple or profound wounds.  The severity of the bite is in fact one of the many conditions needed to be considered in using muzzles as a management tool. This is especially salient for dogs that live together.

Now, I am not for one second advocating that dogs that have such terrible fights that warrant the ongoing use of a muzzle should remain living under the same roof. Keeping the dogs safe physically and emotionally under this very taxing situation is close to a nightmare and rarely impossible to execute with 100% reliability. Professionally I would advise as to what the best course of action might be for dogs that are injuring one another as a case-by-case basis where a lot of factors need to be understood and addressed.

However, I would most certainly advocate that any dog that has a history of injurious or multiple bites MUST be taught to be comfortable (and even enjoy) wearing a muzzle as part of a behavior modification program, and in many cases a way of life for both the dog and the owner. Of the upmost importance as well is that the dog wears a muzzle when in public.

Now the good news is, that yes, indeed, dogs can learn to enjoy wearing a muzzle. Dogs can learn pretty much anything. I would argue that a dog should not wear a muzzle if the preliminary work that takes to teach him to be comfortable with the muzzle has not been done. What happens is that when most dogs are fitted with a muzzle without a preliminary well thought out plan that is also well executed we are de facto setting up the dog to have a bad association with wearing one and now the quality of life I was referring to has gone by the waste side.

Unfortunately, for the owners of dogs who have already bitten the stigma of having their muzzled dog in public constitutes an ongoing PR nightmare.  My clients whose dogs have bitten someone and now wear muzzles in public tell me that at times strangers comment to them for being “responsible dog owners” (BRAVO! Stranger) while also, strangers are not shy in telling the owner that they “should” put to sleep such dangerous dogs!  Without knowing anything about the dogs, its history, etc.  How unfair this is.

Yes, ignorance about the ethology of dogs is really rampant. Add to the mix, the deep-seeded fear that humans have of animals that can potentially bite and you end up with a judgmental person that does very little to support the efforts of indeed responsible and educated dog guardians.

In my perfect world, we all see dogs for who they really are: A-MAZING!  But also, potentially biting machines that can produce a bite with great force in a split of second. In my perfect world, dogs are taught before they even have a bite on their resume, that muzzles are fun and potentially having to wear one is no big deal, and it might indeed just be the ticket to continued play with other dogs, being walked in public, etc.

Also, in my perfect world, we stop judging people for muzzling their dogs because after all, they are the ones that love that dog, that know that dog and the ones that need our support and admiration instead of our sharp tongues.

Final note: The ONLY type of muzzle that a dog should wear is one that is fitted properly and that allows the dog to pant (literally open its mouth comfortably), take treats and even drink some water. Yes, maybe this will have to be modified by giving the dog water via a water bottle squirting some liquid out instead of the dog drinking out of a water bowl.  Dogs can only regulate their body heat by panting and their paws, so if the dog cannot pant while being exercised- even when it is cool outside, it won’t be able to regulate its body temperature.  You now have a potential emergency situation or worse, the dog dying of heat stroke. The muzzle to use is called (a) basket muzzle (pictured in this entry) and are not the ones that groomers and vets use often in their practice.

Ever So Subtle

I am coming in the front door with Deuce in tow. Rio was home and had just finished a play date with a pal of hers. Deuce also used to play with Dash prior to Dash exhibiting a full-blown case of testosterone. For now, Deuce does not join in on these play sessions until Dash is altered since Deuce was beginning to target him as many unuttered males are by neutered ones. In essence, it's as if the unaltered dog is wearing a target on his back that reads: Hit me! Hit me!

In any event, as I walk through the door with Deuce, a bouncy Rio comes to greet us. I am watching her say “hi” to Deuce and I noticed Rio licking Deuce’s muzzle with Deuce reciprocating as well. All kissing out of the way we are now in the kitchen, which is adjacent to our living room. Rio body blocks Deuce by swiftly and comically moving in front of him while she nudges him on the face - this time with more determination thus preventing him  from continuing to move forward directly to one of their beds located in a corner of our kitchen area.

Dogs are masters at managing each other via use of space. Their signals and body language are oh so subtle for the untrained eye that if you do not know what you are looking for, you will miss it all together.

I am amused by Rio’s reaction to Deuce. I realized now that it makes sense that she is once again trying to manage his whereabouts since we are in the kitchen – a quasi “sacred” area for Rio - all things food captivate her! Come to think of it, the fact that John and now I were also in the kitchen makes it even more probable that goods are going to be dispersed, but only if they are lying on their beds.

So here is a fun challenge (or called it a game) that you can play with your dog:

• Stand in front of your dog.
• Make eye contact and gently move ever so slightly to one side.
• Watch your dog closely and see if he mirrors in any way your sway motion. Perhaps he will rotate his eyes or an ear, move his hips in the same direction (opposite since he is facing you but same direction you moved).
• Try swaying to the other side. What now?
• See if you can observe the tiny movements your dog makes in response to your own movements.
• You can step it up a notch and lean (feet remain on the ground) towards your dog, again very slightly. Observe your dog's response.
• Try the same, but leaning backwards…

Now you are both good dance partners!

Just like how Rio controlled Deuce’s movements by taking up his “personal” space, we can learn to do the same with our dogs when we need them to move in a certain direction. Think, for example, of using your own body to block the front door from your dog as he makes a beeline to the great outdoors. Or moving your dog away from where you prepare food in the kitchen and back to their beds.

Not only is this way of managing our dogs and their whereabouts more humane than the ubiquitous grabbing of the collar or the scruff (ouch, who would like being moved that way) but also your dog will get it!

We humans are also sensitive to our personal space and we would most likely respond as our dogs do when someone (especially someone we do not want close) moves too close to us. I think the difference is that dog’s have a much more subtle body language.

Now back to our dogs. I am not much of a proponent of exercising “control” over our dogs. I try to not use this phrase much because it has a negative connotation for me.

Animals as sentient begins and individuals need to also have their needs met and controlling them does not support this.

This is one more reason why I encourage people to move their dogs when needed in a manner that the dog can understand. Your dog might be just so impressed by your good manners that he will comply oh so readily!

I am working with a client who has mobility issues and a very exuberant strong dog. One of the exercises we have been working on is teaching his dog to back up when my client needs to walk without having the dog jump on him or block his path. On our session yesterday, the dog was responding nicely to me when I asked him to back up after I had taught the dog what that meant. Now it was my client’s turn to work with his dog as I watched.

Initially the dog would either look at me for a reinforcer (treat in this case) instead of moving back as requested. After a little troubleshooting my client was able to successfully use his body to request his dog to move back giving him ample space to move safely. I too got my reinforcement when I saw my client’s expression of success as I heard loud and clear his cheerful good boy!! directed at his dog.

Three practical applications for muzzles

When it comes to using equipment during training or for a dog to wear I tend to be very practical. I realized people have a budget and at times it is easy to rely too heavily on a tool without having the dog really learn the necessary skills.

However there is one piece of equipment that I find myself recommending more and more for my clients - sometimes it is a pre-requisite for training. That piece of equipment is a muzzle. Muzzles have in some circle a “bad rep”. I have heard some clients expressing concerned about how the general public might perceive their dog for wearing a muzzle or they themselves begin to perceive the dog as “dangerous,” “aggressive” etc. There are times, however, when a muzzle is mandatory and the difference between a dog biting someone, a liability, or the dog being put down because of local ordinances after a bite(s).

There are other circumstances in which a muzzle is really a good training tool say at the vet’s office or even in the event of an evacuation should you and your dog have to stay at a local shelter where only muzzled dogs are permitted. For this last reason alone I am working with both my dogs in making sure that the muzzle is not aversive for them but that they learn to be comfortable having one on should the need arise.

The trick is to do the work way before you need to have your dog muzzled so that when you need to do so (if ever) the experience will not be even more traumatizing to the two of you.

But, what kind of muzzle is the right one?

Here is some information that might shed some light and a simple training plan to get you and your dog started with this important training. I recommend using a sturdy basket muzzle versus a muzzle known as a “groomer’s muzzle”. With a basket muzzle your dog will be able to breathe even pant comfortably while wearing it and because of this it is the only safe choice when your dog is doing any kind of physical activity (dogs do not perspire like we do the only way they can regulate body heat is by their paws and through their mouths by panting). A “groomers” muzzle should NEVER be worn by a dog outside the vet clinic or the groomers and again here, having your dog accustomed to it will make the experience much more pleasant for the dog and the staff.

Besides choosing the right kind of muzzle make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for proper sizing and fitting. A muzzle that comes off is no good, so do pay attention. Once you have selected the muzzle follow the plan below of helping your dog associate the muzzle with something really positive. This might not be a weekend project but one worth while pursuing.

Introducing the muzzle.
To make your dog associate the muzzle with good things, get out the yummiest treats you can think of, and follow the steps below. The steps can be done in one session or over several, depending on your dog’s comfort level.

Step 1: Reach through and treat.

• Hold the muzzle up with one hand so your dog notices it.
• Reach through the muzzle with your other hand to give your dog a treat.
• Repeat 3-6 times.
• From now on, every time your dog sees the muzzle, treat him. When the muzzle goes away, stop treating.

Step 2: Nose in the muzzle for treat.

• Cup the muzzle with one hand. Hold the treat so your dog has to put his nose into or through the muzzle to get the treat.
• As soon as the treat is gone, remove the muzzle.
• Repeat until your dog voluntarily sticks his nose into the muzzle to get the treat.
• Now treat several times really quickly so your dog keeps his face in the muzzle for 2-3 seconds.
• Repeat until he can keep the muzzle on for 10 seconds with you delivering a treat every few seconds.

Step 3: Nose in the muzzle and buckle for treat.

• Load the muzzle up with treats. While your dog eats, hold the neck straps behind his neck and apply light pressure. As soon as he finishes the treats, take off the muzzle.
• Next, have your dog put his nose in the muzzle, hold the neck straps, and then start feeding the treats through the muzzle. Repeat this exercise until your dog will keep his head in the muzzle for 3-5 seconds before you start treating.
• Have your dog put his nose in the muzzle, but now close the buckle and unleash a bunch of treats, preferably something extra delicious. When the treats are gone, take off the muzzle.

Step 4: Wearing the muzzle for treat and walk.

• Put the muzzle on and immediately take your dog for a fun walk. Take some treats with you and dish them out along the way.

Lumper or Splitter?

A friend of mine gave me an orchid and the amazing thing is that after several months it is still alive! Even John said to me: whatever you are doing to that plant is working… look at it, it is flowering again. I went to the powder room and sure enough there she stands beautiful… displaying some purplish little flowers.

The thing here is that I always manage to kill the plants under my care. Either I water them too much (maybe out of guilt of having previously forgotten to do so) or I just forget that they need water and sun (or partial sun or partial shade) to survive. But this time it has been different.

Now get this, I had notice how well my plant was doing and encouraged I was thinking of trying my hand at a second one. Then came John’s comment and with his comment a boost of confidence! I can take care of plants.

My new-found success with plants made me realize the importance of feeling confident for future successes. Because I have had a positive experience with this plant, I was encouraged to buy a second one.

Come to think of it, creating confidence in our dogs has the same effect. When we vow to teach them to become more comfortable with their environment we instill confidence. I can think of the example of putting on a harness on a dog that has never worn one (or a muzzle, collar, walk on leash, etc.) step by step - making sure that the dog is participating at his/her own pace in the process instead of forcing the dog to fit into the piece of equipment.

I remember once in the Bay area where my clients have talked to someone that convinced them that their Golden had to be able to walk on top of the drainage grate, so when the three of us went to their local park they showed me what they were doing in order to have the dog walk on the grate. Unfortunately for the dog, my clients have failed to pay attention to how their dog was perceiving this new experience and what he was communicating by his body language. When I saw this, I asked them why was it that they insisted their dog walk on top of the drainage grate and her answer was: "Because he has to."

Don’t get me wrong folks, these people LOVED their dog dearly but unfortunately they were not seeing life from their dog’s point of view. Sure, I agree that there are always things and situations that our dogs can learn to handle with more finesse, less stress and even enjoy more but rest assure that the goal is as important as the process.

Of course we can, for example, stop the dog from barking by shocking him with a collar without even investigate as to why is he barking. There are other solutions to this annoying problem: We can teach the dog an alternate, an incompatible behavior to the barking. Or we can modify the environment, or
manage the dog and the environment. Yes indeed, we can teach the dog to come to us by zapping him with a shock when he does not readily come to us but, but… is this really how we want to relate to our animals?

Dogs are not unlike children who soar when praised (or given something they find really valuable when they have done something we approve of). Our dogs also need our encouragement so that they can learn with less “wear and tear”. One of the ways to achieve this is to build their confidence little by little by carefully observing the dog for signs of too much stress fear or anxiety as they
are exposed to something novel or fear inducing (from the dog’s point of view). The truth is that there is always a better way for us to teach our dogs.

Animal trainer Bob Bailey coined the phrase or concept of “splitter” or “lumper”. And he asks: Are you a “lumper” or a “splitter”? If you are a “lumper” you then “lump” or organize learning without much consideration for how the process is affecting the learner, you kind of just lay it all out and hope that the animal can learn and cope with the “material”. A splitter will “split” or present the material in very small steps. The steps are as small as they need to be for the animal to be successful every step of the way. The trainer only moves forward with a higher level of difficulty once the animal has shown proficiency in execution of the step one is training. Can you see how this approach considers the well-being of the animal, the process of learning and the end result or final behavior? Which believe it or not will be more resistant to extinction.

I realize that sometimes we just want to get to our goal… there are pressures everywhere to be faster and more “productive”. It is so easy I know, to fall victim to this MO. Perhaps though, what we all need are often reminders about how terrific it is to feel confident. Confidence is a better place to be and a much better platform for learning.