Do professional trainers get fed up with their dogs?

I was thinking about this topic on a snowy morning when I announced to John that we should go snow shooing with the dogs! We got ready and headed out the door.  We were in awe of the amount of snow just outside our front door.  I love outings like this, but today it was a different story.

We normally walk the dogs on leashes if next to a road. This morning however, we decided that they could be off-leash as it was a holiday and the snow filled roads most likely would prevent any cars from speeding. The dogs were happy to explore familiar, yet quite different surroundings because of the snow.  As always, I practiced calling them back just to release them after coming to me.  I also practice stopping on cue and waits (dog not moving forward, but staying in place or coming back to me).

I began my snow shooing adventure with gusto only to discover that I was getting really warm and thirsty as I failed to bring water with me. Now, I am not that comfortable and I am getting irritable at the dogs when they don’t respond as I want them to.

I realize that part of my frustration and my insistence that they came to me had to do with feeling somewhat vulnerable.  I am athletic, but not super experienced in winter forms of exercise. I realized I was not very fast in my snow shoes should I have needed to intervene if we came across the pack of coyotes that live in our neighborhood or should Deuce have decided to chase a car; an unlikely scenario, I realized- but the mind plays tricks on us when we are not feeling on top of our game.

We continue down the wash with me gravitating between being frustrated at the dogs and having to manage them and enjoying the activity.  At some point, I scolded myself for having such lofty expectations of our exploration and being a control freak.  Can I just relax and let the dogs be?

At times, I am looking at the really beautiful landscape all covered in white with icicles here and there clinging to tree branches. My frustration grows because I want to stop to enjoy my surroundings and even take a few pictures, but I am still managing the dogs.

So to answer the question:  Yes, even professional dog trainers (or at least this professional dog trainer) get frustrated with their dogs. The difference might be that once we get our “cool” back we know how to troubleshoot and we are very keen at management.

The same holds true not only in snowy outings with the gang, but when one does not plan a training session ahead of time and now things are not panning out.  This frankly is a rookie mistake resulting in everyone paying the price.

When we get frustrated, our dogs often don’t understand why we are treating them differently. Differently not in a good way, but perhaps our voices are harsh and we even might glance at them with a hard stare, which they can only interpret as a threat.

We all can respond to stress and frustration in ways that we wish were few and far in between. However, we can still take stock of what leads to a frustrating situation or a frustrating disposition be it as we get ready to go out and have fun with the dogs or before a training session.

One piece of advice I give my clients who love to go exploring with their dogs, and especially to those that love to work out hard, is to find time for these activities away from their dogs. My example of our snow shooing adventure and my wanting to take photographs are a perfect example of a conflict of interest that might produce bad results.

Yes indeed, I can snap a picture with my iPhone while minding my dogs, but I cannot really take the time to pull out my other camera, wait for excellent lighting and decide on what makes for a great composition while minding the dogs. The solution then is to be clear about the expectations that each adventure offers and to stick to them as best one can. Taking the time to be with my dogs is of paramount importance to me, but so is enjoying a fun activity without adding more stress and becoming a nag. I learned a valuable lesson this morning: Adjust your expectations and plan for what is important so that my frustration at a less than an ideal outcome does not spill onto my dogs.  

How to successfully add another dog to your home

Adding a new dog to your home could be one of the most challenging things you might have to do with your existing pup (s). But it doesn’t need to be so. If you plan ahead and follow a few simple rules, your dogs will stand a better chance of getting along and even becoming fast friends.

One of the biggest mistakes one can make (and this happens frequently) is assuming that dogs should get along because we think that this is the “polite” or social thing to do or because we like this new dog and we want to adopt him so our dog must like him too.

Dogs unfortunately for us, play by different standards.  They truly could not care less about our infatuation as humans for social graces, per se. They are instead more focused on  (possible) competition for resources and feeling safe. As a matter of fact, our dogs still share some traits with their wild ancestors and this is one of them.  Let me explain. Wolves, contrary to popular belief, are very peaceful individuals within their pack. They indeed engage in very ritualized behaviors- used as warning to avoid a true conflict within their pack. Now, in order to keep the stability and safety within their family (yes, indeed the social structure of wolves in the wild truly resembles a traditional  human family with parents taking care of the young with the help of extend family members) they must be weary of intruders, and as such, they will defend their territory ferociously.  

As mentioned, our dogs, while not living in a pack anymore - even where there is cohabitating with the other dogs, since by definition a “pack” implies hunting together, still protect their territory.

With this new understanding, we can better come up with a plan so that incorporating a new member to the group is conflict free. Here are my recommendations for introducing a new family member.

To successfully introduce a new dog into your household, plan ahead and be patient. Don’t assume the dogs will instantly like each other or, if they don’t, that they will work things out themselves. If your dogs get off on the wrong paw, the relationship might not recover. Taking a little extra time is well worth the effort.

Before you get in the house.
Arrange an on-leash meeting on neutral ground. That means not in your house or yard, and with plenty of space around.  Ideally, and this is important, introduce the dogs by walking on an arc versus approaching the other leashed dog straight on.

Keep the leashes loose and let the dogs approach each other calmly.
After a 2 second greet-and-sniff, call each dog away with a cheerful voice. Praise and treat the dogs.

Now take a short walk with both dogs. If, after the greeting, the dogs are a little stiff with each other,  or they are pulling on leads to get another close sniff, begin the walk on separate sides of the street. As the dogs relax, gradually move closer together until they walk side by side.

In the backyard.
If possible, allow playtime in the yard. For safety, have the dogs drag their leashes until you are sure they get along well.

Should a fight break out, use noise (your voice, clanging or banging pans) to stop it. If that doesn’t work, you can also throw water at the dogs so make are you have plan ahead and have pans and water available.  If these two options fail, use the leashes to separate the dogs. Never reach in between two fighting dogs.

In the house.
The first time the dogs are inside the house together, keep them on leash and keep the introduction brief, around 5 minutes.

Then confine the newcomer to a comfortable space, like a spare room, crate, or a dog-proofed, enclosed area where he can start to get used to his new home away from the attention of other family pets.

Over the next day or two, repeat the brief introductions. Keep them to 5-10 minutes and keep the dogs on leash. If a squabble breaks out, leashes make it easy to pull the dogs apart.

Make the time the dogs spend together as pleasant for them as possible. Reward friendly and playful behavior with food treats, praise, and toys.

Remember to be cautious when dispensing treats, your attention or toys since dogs competing for resources are a common occurrence. Using a piece of furniture between the dogs, a baby gate to create a bit of a visual barrier for the dogs is a good idea.

Don’t be tempted to try longer periods of time if the early introductions go well. Slowly work your way to longer and longer periods of dog-dog time.

Every now and then, confine your other dog (and any other pets) and let the newcomer explore the house by himself.

Keep break-away collars on your dogs when they are playing to avoid having them potentially tangle up which is highly distressing for any dog and an emergency.

Find other activities such as leash group walks so that the dogs share on a fun activity without the pressure  to engage.

Praise all cordial and playful interactions between the dogs.

Feed your newcomer separately from other dogs. The same holds true for dispensing any other goodies that your dogs might compete for.

Keep your resident dogs schedule as consistent as possible so that  they do not have to deal with too many changes at once.

With this approach, your new dog should be fully accepted as a family member within a week or two.  However, If things are still not warming up after two weeks, get help from a trainer who has experience with this issue and one that uses positive reinforcing techniques.  

Frosty Paws

It feels strange writing about activities with our dogs in the snow since, at least in the Southwest high dessert, we are seeing balmy temperatures and no snow in sight. We did have an opportunity to take the dogs for a fun walk in the snow a few days ago. This walk was definitively different for Deuce.

They both love the cold temperatures and walking in the snow, but Deuce gets snow stuck between his toes, and now he is not walking. Instead he has stopped and is trying to remove the sticky snow with his mouth. For this reason, we bought him some really nice booties.

There is always the risk that a dog will not take well to a new piece of “equipment” no matter how much we think it will make them more comfortable. I always recommend folks take the time to get their dog comfortable at least and at best loving wearing whatever piece of equipment they intend to use with their dog. The process can be lengthy but it is definitively worth pursuing. Also, think about this: many times we do things to dogs (just) because we can and this can be a slippery slope.

So, to clarify, ideally we make good decision for our dogs that will keep them safe and increase the quality of their life, and as such, we help them transition into new experiences with care.

 

In the case of Deuce and his new pair of flashy snow boots the process was relatively easy. First, we made sure we knew how the boots needed to fit him so that he was comfortable and not lose them. Then we worked in tandem. I fed Deuce treats and John slowly worked with the boots one foot at a time.

In the process, Deuce needed a break from holding a paw up and we gave him a few seconds to just chill. I then noticed that Deuce was not so interested in the treats so I began to throw the ball at him so that he could catch it in his mouth - a favorite game of his. A few minutes later we were all ready to head out the door.

Deuce took his first steps looking more like a penguin flopping a fin than a dog but once we were outside he realized he could walk and run just fine.

We had tried other boot models that did not work for Deuce, so I found a more expensive and better design pair of winter boots. Not only did they prove to be comfortable for Deuce but we came back from our hike without losing any of them!

These boots of course could be used not only in the snow but whenever there is rough terrain should a dog be sensitive in its paws. I would also suggest using boots for a dog that has severe allergies otherwise it might be a necessity to wipe the paws after every outing.

I do warn folks that using boots on hot climate might not be a good thing. Dogs do not have sweat glands like we do. They shed heat by panting and through their paws. Please talk to your vet beforehand.

If you are looking for some good boots for your dog, check out Neopaws. www.neopaws.com

Trouble in paradise

We are at the vet’s office having Rio’s bandage changed when an acquaintance walks through the doors with her dog.  Her dog appears somewhat shaken-up and has a bloody injury close to his eye.  “What happened?” I inquired.  They tell me that this is the fifth time their dog has been attacked by their other male dog.

Yes, these dogs are also “friendly”; they play together, snooze together and then the attacks occur. The level of injury is quite severe. The other dog never gets injured so it is one dog that is always damaging the other dog.

Clearly the owners are very distraught, and knowing this cannot continue as it has been.  They tell me that as young dogs, the dogs did not get into fights, but suddenly the series of fights took place.  What makes it worse is that according to them the fights are becoming more damaging.  We continue to talk as they try to piece together the events as neither one of them was at home when the fight took place.

So far they have not been able to identify the triggers for the fights. What is clear is that they have decided that they cannot subscribe to the super tight management (perhaps through the lives of these dogs). I don’t blame them.  This kind of management is really brutal and never 100% foolproof. My heart goes out to them because they love both dogs, but they are painfully aware that having one of their dogs constantly having fear of being attacked and getting attacked is more than anyone can handle.

Now they are on the phone trying to find out who can help them out while they find a permanent home for the one that is creating the injuries. It is, of course, possible that they might find an appropriate home where this dog can be an only dog.  But the reality is that unfortunately there are too many dogs and not enough homes.  Sad indeed.

I tell them that I have worked with several cases like this where household dogs are fighting.  These cases are some of the most challenging to resolve.  Many times, the answer is rehoming or euthanasia.

I’ve come to bear the understanding that wolves -the genetic past of our dogs very seldom will take in a lonely wolf that is looking to join another pack.  Wolves, while living tight-knit, sometimes go solo in search of another pack that he can join. On occasion, this lonely wolf is admitted into the pack, but that is not the norm.

Clearly our dogs are not wolves, but they still share some genetic wiring of their wild past; wiring that comes to bear in their social relations.

The fact that we choose which dogs we like and which dogs we want to share our lives with is really immaterial to our dogs being able to co-exists.  Simply put:  it is really not “normal” for canids to just get along because someone said you have to.

Even when dogs are well matched to live together close observation and management in the form of having some rules the dogs have learned and implemented can go a long way in keeping harmony in the household. Most folks either are not aware of the underlining conflict between their dogs, and as such respond when the relationship has gone sour.

My concern, of course, is for the dog that is constantly being harassed, intimidated and physically injured in his own home. Can you imagine how stressful this must be?  How detrimental to the well-being of the dog?

Just this morning Deuce walks towards Rio who is totally engage with a Kong and demands in his doggie manner for some of what she is having. I immediately called him away so that he stops bugging Rio and re-directed him to his own crate where his own goodie awaits.

The thing is that if we start on the right foot, the chances of having dogs that do not push their weight around or that choose to not escalate the conflict, but instead diffuse when things are not going their way is quite doable. But as stated -unfortunately most people do not consider the “wild” side of their furry companions when they decide to add one more dog to the mix.  In addition, dogs that initially got along well while young might find themselves as ferocious adversaries once maturity is reached.

My recommendations to those folks that want to bring another dog into their family or that have more than one dog in the midst is to begin to pay attention for any signs of conflict between the dogs such as one dog trying to manage the other dog’s movement by blocking its movement, any posturing with a stiff body or any other displays of aggression such as growls (when this is not in the context of play) sneering, etc. when competing for any coveted resource.

If the dogs are already fighting, owners must find a way to stop the fights by separating the dogs.  In addition, the dogs need to learn alternative ways of expressing desires for things they want such as food, toys, attention and the like. Tight constant management as well as behavior modification must be implemented if we want to stand a chance at a possible reconciliation between the dogs.

Ideally also people get dogs of different sex.  While this is not always possible it might help with the overall relationship and to keep fights at bay as most fights take place between dogs of the same sex.

Size might also be a consideration.  Of course, the smallest dog as a norm, has less than a fighting chance when being confronted by a larger stronger dog.

The initial introduction is also really important. Planning how to go about this can again aid in making sure the relationship gets started right.  Next week, I will give you some ideas on how to manage this important step.

Excessive Anything

As I have previously written, we are smack in the middle of Rio’s recovery.  She needs to wear a cast for 4 for more weeks. She cannot lick, or worse, chew on it at all. The recommendations are for her to wear a really cumbersome Elizabethan collar all the time to prevent her from doing the above. Frankly this part is the most taxing for both of us.

When I am watching her, she gets to take a break and we both breath happily. This morning I gave her a Kong with a hard-boiled egg for breakfast.  I watched her as she diligently licks and licks the toy to extract every bit of the egg.  Once she is done with the Kong, I notice that she is less active and most definitively not wanting to lick her cast-bound leg.  Now she is snoozing. Aww she looks so content and relaxed that I don’t even want to take her just yet for her daily car ride, which she loves.

I have seen this before, but now I am reminded of it close at home.  When dogs are stressed or anxious for whatever reason Kongs or any other food dispensing toy- especially the ones where dogs need to use their mouths rigorously to extract the food, satisfy a pretty basic need in them.

So many of my clients have dogs that are dedicated barkers, lick themselves, chase skateboards or cars with gusto only as an obsessed dog can muster. As part of our training and modification plan, I strongly suggest they feed their dogs out of these toys.

When they are motivated enough to do it, they readily notice the benefit the chewing and licking - in short, the positive effect it has on their dog’s overall demeanor and behavior. I have never heard anything different.

They might be, of course, important physiological reasons behind the high return in behavior from such a simple activity. For now, I will stick to observation and experience on how we can help ourselves by helping our dogs when we provide outlets like this which pay big dividends.

I get that most people feel really taxed with a myriad of daily chores. However, this “chore” is like anything else we choose to subscribe to in our day to day lives, be it meditation, fitness, eating well or else.  All of these activities require our commitment, and we commit to them because we find them valuable. What we can do for our dogs should not be any different.

Of course, I am not saying that your dog eating out of these toys will resolve all behavior problems. But I am saying that doing so will be a very solid foundation to help with whatever emotional or behavioral problem you need to work through with your dog.

If I can keep that collar on Rio for less time, it makes total sense to bite the bullet and spend a few more minutes every morning serving her meal this way. Below you’ll find a training plan to help your novice dog learn how to eat this way. If your dog has had more experience you can look at my suggestions as well so that your pup gets as well a nice dose of mental challenge.

Teaching Level

• Fill a size - appropriate KONG® for your dog with kibble or your dog’s food.
• Give the toy to your dog for her to experiment getting the food out of it by rotating it, pawing it, etc.
• Feed your dog her whole meal out of KONGS once she is adept at getting all the food out and appears to enjoy the activity.
• At this level, it’s okay to encourage your dog or even help her a bit by rotating the KONG® yourself so food comes out.

Beginner’s Level

• Make the extracting of the food a bit harder by stuffing the KONG and then placing a harder item such as a piece of jerky, dry liver, frozen banana chip, etc. in between the kibble.

Advanced Level 1

• Increase the level of difficult by wetting the kibble ahead of time so that it swells and becomes a “mush.” You can wet with water or something special such as chicken broth, etc.
• Serve to your dog. 

Advance Level 2 / During Warmer Months:

• Prepare KONG® as you did for previous levels but freeze overnight or for a few hours.
• Allow KONG® to thaw for about 1 hour before serving.
• Best to serve in a crate or outside to avoid a possible mess.

Recipe Examples Courtesy of Jean Donaldson, From The Academy For Dog Trainers

Tight Version (more advanced) Stuffing

• Layer 1 (deepest): roasted unsalted cashews, mild cheese chunks, freeze dried liver bits
• Layer 2: dog kibble, cookies or Liver Biscotti, Cheerios, sugar-free/salt-free peanut butter, dried banana chips
• Layer 3: baby carrot stick(s), turkey and/or leftover ravioli or tortellini, dried apples, dried apricots

Pack as tightly as possible. The last item in should be a dried apricot or piece of ravioli, presenting a smooth “finish” under the main hole.

“Lite” Version:

• For cashews, substitute crumbled rice cake; for freeze-dried liver, substitute Caesar croutons; for peanut butter substitute fat-free cream cheese.

The goal is to feed your dog at least one of his daily meals via a food dispensing toy.

One of your dogs is injured, but you have two (or more) dogs. How are you going to handle this?

As I am writing this I am sitting next to my two dogs. They are both lying down, but Rio unfortunately is wearing one of those very cumbersome Elizabethan collars.  She just underwent surgery a week ago and we are looking at to 8 -10 weeks of lying low with little in the form of physical activity and lots and lots of management.  On the other hand, Deuce is not recuperating, and as such, he is ready to do what we do every morning - chasing after the ball or hiking.

Yep, sometimes I am overwhelmed.  I am constantly having to plan when and how to go from one activity to the next while working with clients as I try to keep my sanity. I guess this is a good example where I need to really dial up my “Zen”.  Zen in taking some time to take stock in how to move Rio safely from one spot to the other, in remembering to wrap her cast when it’s wet outside and she needs to go pee in a hurry.
Zen,
Having systems in place is very helpful.  My systems include ways by which I can keep all the medication times and dosages straight. The same goes in planning what to do with her when I am outside exercising Deuce. Instead of throwing it all in at the last minute, I establish new routines. Simple things such as Rio not being able to eat out of her customary food bowl, can really wreak havoc on the list of do’s & don’ts that we need to follow for her recuperation.

Besides deciding what kind of activities she can still do so that she gets some mental stimulation, and as best as possible keeping her life as intact as possible, I also make sure I follow the household routines for Deuce.

Yes, there is also the emotional component:  it is hard to go play with your healthy dog (s) while the other one rests in her crate. When I feel a bit down I quickly remind myself of our ultimate goal behind the surgery:  Rio will be able to do all the activities she loves to do, but with being pain free. I even tell her (more for my benefit, mind you, than hers) that this is not her new life, just her new life for right now and that we will get through this together by focusing on what needs to happen and keeping the eye on the big picture: no (more) pain and back to lots of fun as we did before.

It is also important to take stock of activities that both dogs can enjoy such as chewing a tasty bone, getting some one-on-one training or even getting brushed for tasty treats.

I cannot say this enough, slowing down has been tremendously helpful in keeping my sanity as well as rolling with the punches. Of course, it helps when John can then dedicate some one-on-one attention to both dogs.

A solution, of course, is one can also hire competent help when the need arises. Perhaps someone that can stop by and give Rio a break from the plastic (hideous) cone and take her out to eliminate.  Or what about having a favorite person read a story to her, while Deuce and I go sheepherding?  Or having someone come to take Deuce for a walk?

It is important too to not underestimate physical touch and closeness. In my case, one of my dogs wants it because she is not feeling totally “normal” and the other is stressed due to thunder in the vicinity. I take a big sigh and relax into my role of caregiver as I gravitate like a tired planet around the sun between the two dogs, delivering words of encouragement as well as some TTouches. 

Should your dog wear a head-halter?

Head halters are quite useful tools.  It helps with dogs that are large and strong that pull on leash. But most importantly head-halters are a must for those dogs that for whatever reason lunge and pull towards other dogs or people.

I am amazed to see how, when used correctly, head-halters can become the difference between being able to walk a dog that is too strong and with big displays of aggression and not being able to walk the dog at all.

The way this piece of equipment works is similarly to how a horse halter works on a horse.  Wherever the head of the dog goes, the rest follows.

Case in point:
I am working with a client who has a large dog that at times can lunge at people should a person approach them. This happened while we were working together. I saw my very keen client stop the dog in its tracks and literally prevent him from lunging towards the person- instead the dog sat!

Later that afternoon, I am working with a couple with their dog who has similar displays as the one in the morning. This particular dog was new to the head-halter and part of the training was teaching the dog that wearing it means he gets to go for a fun walk.   During this same session, I see how my clients can readily redirect their dog effortlessly.  They are amazed at the difference in influencing where the dog is looking and even walking.

There is a bit of a learning curve for people working with their dog and a head-halter.  Because the leash is attached to the piece of equipment that rides high behind the dog’s head it is absolutely crucial that people are gentle and avoid jerking the dog around. It is also important to avoid putting pressure on the front of the halter.  This can be easily achieved by being mindful that the clip of the leash should hang below the dog’s chin instead of pulling on the dog with the clip parallel to the ground.

If you are struggling with your dog pulling on the leash, teaching your dog to wear a head-halter can be very helpful. Do keep in mind that your dog will not learn not to pull, but it will make it a lot easier for you to walk him by how you can influence the direction the dog is walking. If your dog engages in lunging and hard pulling as a result of being afraid, the head-halter is frankly the only way I would recommend walking the dog.

Below is a simple training plan that can help your dog become comfortable with the head-halter.  In addition, make sure to follow the instructions for fitting the halter.  There are quite a few brands out there and each one of them fits a bit differently.  A correct fit is indispensable to ensure your dog is comfortable with the halter and that it works as it should.

Introducing the head-halter:
To make your dog associate the halter with good things, get out the yummiest treats you can think of, and follow the steps below. The steps can be done in one session or over several, depending on your dog’s comfort level.

Step 1. Reach through and treat.
• Hold the halter up by the nose loop with one hand so your dog notices it.
• Reach through the nose loop with your other hand to give your dog a treat.
• Repeat until your dog is asking for the treat by sticking his nose through the nose loop.
• From now on, every time your dog sees the halter, treat him. When the halter goes away, stop treating.

Step 2. Nose loop on and treat.
• Again, put the nose loop on, then treat, and remove the halter. But now begin to leave the nose loop on for a few seconds longer each time before you present the treat.
• When your dog is eagerly pushing his nose through the loop as soon as you present it, leave the loop on while you feed him several treats in quick succession.
• Slowly build the duration until your dog happily wears the loop for 5-10 seconds.

Step 3. Nose loop on, buckle and treat.
• Ask your dog to put his nose through the loop. Then hold one neck strap behind his neck so he feels a light pressure. Treat. Take off the halter, stop treating.
• Repeat this until your dog gets only one or two treats and is still comfortable. (Over please)

• Now add the second strap. Don’t close the buckle yet, just hold the two straps. Apply light pressure and treat. Remove the halter and stop treating.
• Repeat this until your dog gets only one or two treats and is still comfortable.
• Close the buckle and immediately offer a small avalanche of treats. Praise lavishly. Keep it short—after a few seconds remove the halter and stop treating.
• Repeat until your dog can comfortably wear the halter for 10 seconds.

Step 4: Wearing the head-halter and treat.
• Put the head halter on your dog and immediately feed him his dinner. (Have his dinner ready beforehand.)
• When he is done, clip on the leash and immediately go for a lovely walk. Take some treats and treat him throughout the walk. (Have your shoes on and be ready to go.)

What can we learn from lateral (right or left) tail wagging in our dogs?

Perhaps you have read somewhere about a few studies conducted regarding what is called laterality which is defined as the predominance of one side of the body over the other. Laterality has been observed in many species among them in dogs.  Dogs do have preference as to which side of their body they use in certain circumstance, for example, when using their paws, gazing at people and sniffing.

Is laterality also present in how dogs wag their tails?  There were a couple of studies that looked into this:

Interpretations of Quaranta et al. 2007 “Asymmetric tail-wagging responses by dogs to different emotive stimuli” Current Biology, 17, R199-201. DOI:10.1016/j.cub.2007.02.008 and Siniscalchi et al. 2013 

“Seeing Left- or Right-Asymmetric Tail Wagging Produces Different Emotional Responses in Dogs.” Current Biology, 23, 2279–2282. DOI: 10.1016/j.cub.2013.09.027.

The Quadrant et al study, which was the first, concluded that there is asymmetrical tail wagging in dogs. They interpreted this data by claiming that right wags expressed positive emotions as in the dog being “happy” such as when the dog saw the owner.  Tail wags to the left meant, according to researchers, that the dog was afraid or in fear thus representing negative emotions.

The second study, consisted of showing the study’s dog videos or the silhouette of dogs wagging their tails. In this study researchers wanted to verify if dogs experienced different emotions depending on which side the dog they were viewing wag its tail.

Some questions that come to mind as a result of these studies findings:
1. Does the data (and methodology) used in the study support the observations of laterality and their intrinsic emotions?
2. How should we interpret the rest of the dog’s body and its communication when presented with these different stimuli?
3. Was there a clear consensus as to what the researchers meant by “lateral movement of the tail- the sway of the tail?”  What about dogs that lift their tails first and then sway one side or the other?
4. As you can appreciate, reaching a conclusion from observing a dog’s reaction to a particular stimulus such as a tail wag to the right or left to “knowing” what the dog is actually feeling: happy or positive emotions or sad or fearful hence negative emotions is a big leap of faith.

While most of us are “dying” to know more about dogs we must still tread very carefully when either formulating studies or interpreting the data from such studies.

I am left wondering if a simplistic claim or finding as in: right wag = happy, left wag= sad can really shed some light in understanding really complex issues such as how dogs relate (and feel) towards other dogs as well as other species: feline and humans?  What about establishing some co-relation with these two sets of emotions with complex neurological/brain functions?

As students of canine ethology and behavior, should we not also take a closer look as to the methodology employed and the findings of studies before we begin to jump with excitement at the possibility of having learned something new about our subject of interest?

Should your dog attend doggy daycare

The rave these days is for dogs to have about the same amount of extra-curriculum activities as kids of  affluent families.  Don’t get me wrong, providing engagement to our dog is a very good thing. However, this is where one size does not fit all.

I am discussing with some folks their dog’s daily schedule.  They tell me that both their dogs are sent to daycare daily for the whole day.  Wow, I tell them, let’s start by looking at that.

You see, stimulation is not all the same.  I can be very happy and appropriately stimulated after reading a good article, working out, chatting with a friend etc.  Or I can be really stimulated in a way that does not conduce to well-being and growth.  An example that comes to mind is being in a car accident.   Talk about the wrong kind of stimulation! This is a type of stimulation we don’t want.

Doggy daycare can be really a fantastic alternative to leaving Fido at home for long stretches of time.  Especially so, if the dog truly enjoys the company of other friendly dogs in a fast-paced environment.  Now, can you count the qualifiers above?  That is my point exactly.

While most dogs are really social, not all are.  When they are, their level of desire for off-the charts stimulation is an important consideration. I would argue that the dogs that fall under the” I Luuuvvv other dogs” and LOTS of stimulation are dogs that have been exquisitely socialized to other dogs and people etc. Also to consider is the age of the dog. Most of the dogs that thrive in day cares are adolescent.  That is between the ages of 5 months to 2 years of age- when for most breeds adulthood begins. See, already we have a very narrow number of candidates for doggie-daycare.

Of course there are always exceptions.  However, if your dog visits daycare daily you must ask yourself if the stimulation is way too much!  Okay, I am going to let you in in a little (dark) secret:  Some folks think of daycare as the solution to dealing with behavior problems.  Out of mind out of sight- not my problem! 

When this is the case, the problems are really not being resolved. Instead, folks end up with a dog that is barely behaving at all because he is so tired of the ongoing stimulation. Dogs like this are so exhausted that he/she comes home and crash until next day…. And around and around we go…

The other qualifier has to do with the fact that some dogs are dropped at daycare when they truly could not care less about other dogs or worse they are afraid of them.  Yes, I have seen this too. 

Perhaps added reasons behind this trend is that trainers have done a really good job in telling folks that their dogs need something to do each day.  Point for the trainers!  But wait! Now, what we lack is imagination. Yes, daycare can be a really good alternative but it is for sure not the only one. 

Ideally your over-the-top friendly pup gets to go to daycare once or twice a week and hopefully not for all day- just a couple of hours at the most.  Think about how lovely it is to have overnight guests. But oh, much more lovely when they leave (LOL). Not that we are not social or love our friends or family but just plain and simple too much stimulation that does not feel good anymore and our wanting to get back to our routines etc.

This post then is an invitation:  An invitation in really assessing if we are doing good on the dog,  your dog. 
It is also an invitation to look outside the one option for engagement. A good option is for sure a walk!  A walk that doubles as sniffing as much as possible- for the dog, in combination with much needed basic obedience drills such as sit, sit/stays, down, down/stays, walking on a loose leash and add a trick or two for good measure.  Not only will your dog be appropriately stimulated from engaging in the world- with all its variety but also because of the extra attention you give your dog during your walk.

I have seen this over and over again.  A few minutes of mindful training (that is training with a plan, not just willy-nilly) will really tire your dog.  I see this with my dogs everyday! I am referring here to 1 or 2, 3 minutes of training (once you have gathered all you need for the training and have a plan in mind) a day!

Another great alternative: Provide daily chewies to your dog!  Chewing is such a doggie-activity and for good reason.  Dogs use their mouth a lot for a variety of purposes but one of them is enjoyment. Test-drive what your dog prefers and then commit to making this part of a daily dose of excellent stimulation.  One of my favorites activities for dogs: a working to eat program. Again, two important components for dogs here:  eating (who does not like to eat?  Raise your hand?) And the search component stimulating their predatory brains.

If your dog is friendly enough and has a stellar recall (he comes when you call him) hiking is another awesome way to spend some time with your pup.  Perhaps this activity will occupy you both during the weekend or whenever you have the time off.

When you are at work and thus unable to engage with your pup to mentally stimulate him follow the steps below:

1.    Make a daily schedule for your dog:  Answer the following: What? Where? With whom?
2.    Follow your schedule. Make necessary arrangements.
3.    Think combos:  For example: A pro walker will come and give your dog a break mid-morning so that your dog has some company, elimination time and some engagement.  However, before you left for work, you did a 3-min. training session with your pup AND before you left, you left his breakfast in puzzle toys.  As you are getting ready to step of the front door, your dog is beaming with glee. He now has some precious time to do something really fun and eat his meal.  Then comes snooze time and then… the walk!
4.    Think variety but always checking for too much of one type or too much stimulation. If your dog is good candidate for daycare (the: I LUVs dogs and hanging around lots of them) send him to daycare. 
5.    If option 4 is a good match for you and your guy (or gal), make sure the daycare is a reputable one (I have written about this so go back to the archives and look for that post).  Also, make sure your dog gets to spend some time alone (in a crate, an office etc.) with a chew toy or just snoozing away from all activity at the daycare.  If you hear that that is not needed or not possible, look for another place where the establishment will help you with your goals for your dog.

Consider the following:  There are many reasons why people choose to live with a dog.  I would argue that one of them is because of how much fun, relaxation and just happy stuff they bring to us.  But why are we not spending more time with them in equally fun activities?  The choice is ours to make. 

When is resource guarding between dogs not a good thing

Resource guarding of anything that a dog considers valuable is normal dog behavior. It goes back to- you guess it, evolution. Dogs are opportunistic feeders and scavengers.  In other words, in the wild, dogs do not know when their next meal will appear so they eat when food becomes available. In addition, they are scavengers which means they can feed off of other’s left overs.  This is, by the way, one of the main traits that apparently got dogs and people together in the first place.

For our modern-day dogs, or better said, for dogs that live life as pets in the comfort of someone’s world with pretty much meals around the clock, guarding might be not that relevant. But try to tell that to the dog that covets food, toys, bones or any other item such as a bed, and even a person. Yes, indeed, dogs are complex beings. Besides genetics, dogs are learning all the time so it is possible that the guarding is a result of learning.

Say, for example, that a dog learned that when he is enjoying chewing on something of interest someone comes by and forcefully removes the item.  Now, the dog decides that what is his is his and he will fight for it because otherwise it will be taken away from him.  What a slippery slope!

When it comes to dog & dog guarding the scenario is very similar to the above.  Sure, dogs often want different things at different times; after all they are individuals.  But what happens when more than one wants the same stuff?  Here is where problems might arise.

Ideally dogs have not been reinforced either by a person or by the environment itself for guarding to the point of escalating displays of aggression or full fledge aggression. Also, ideally dogs learn to diffuse conflict instead of going all out because they want something now!  If you have dogs that jump the gun at any provocation, you are in for a lot of fighting, my friend!

The trick, of course, is to know when the guarding is “appropriate” that is; no-one is getting injured physically or even bullied emotionally- in the case of another dog and when it needs to stop before things get very ugly.

There are several things people can do to make sure their dogs or their dog and a visiting pal don’t get into trouble.

1. Manage the heck of resources that are typically desirable. This includes: anything edible and toys.
2. Make sure there is ample to go around.  So, that the message the dog gets is that he too will get the goodie thus no need for competition.
3. Teach your dog manners!  You have no idea how long this strategy will go! Dogs need to learn that pushing their weight around is not the way to get what they want. You will be surprised how quickly they can learn this if you are consistent in delivering consequences for poor behavior such as bullying another.
4. Supervise around coveted stuff until you learn if there are any such items that the dogs will compete over. If so, just deliver these individually.  Good news is the time alone with a favorite toy or chewy is an excellent way for your pups to spend some “alone” quite time.

Some dogs are quite good at sharing certain things as in the case of my two dogs.  However, things can change quite rapidly so it is important to keep this in mind and make any necessary changes to keep the peace at home. Sigh.

When it comes to dog guarding a location, say a sofa, or your bed, you could just teach the dog (in short sessions used for this purpose) to get off the furniture on verbal cue.  Again, I urge you not to physically force your dog off stuff.  Adversarial approaches do have consequences and most of them are exactly what we do not want. Instead teach this in the form of a game by tossing treats on the floor that your dog gets to have when you say off and he complies.  Also, this can double for a nice round of cardio when the weather is not nice to go play outside!  “Up, off, up, off, up, off”… you get the picture. So, whenever your dog guards a location you ask your dog to get off as he just lost the privilege of a comfy place.


Paying attention to how your dogs relate around resources are one of the most salient and easy things you can do to avoid most fights in your home.  If your dog is already a compulsive guarder do not label your dog as a “bad”, dominant or even a stubborn dog because he is just responding as a dog. Instead, pay attention to the items that are at the center of the problem and teach your dog (s) that waiting politely for goods is the best way to access them.

If the guarding or even posturing continues, c-a-l-m-l-y escort your dog outside.  The goal here is to teach your dog consistently yet gently that manners matter and that if he cannot be polite he misses out. That is all.  One of the best kept secrets about dogs is that they do what works. Period. They are savvy creatures that have perfected - if you will, the art of staying alive and thriving. If you teach your dogs what you want them to do in order to access resources you will see your dogs following your lead.


Finally, if your pups are already fighting over resources, please get professional help. Find someone that has experienced with aggression and behavior modification.  Equally important- avoid, avoid at all costs harsh methods to “fix” the problem or you just made the situation much worse for everyone involved.

Living with dogs raises consciousness (or it can!)

Deuce and I are at our weekly sheepherding lesson, something we have done for the past five years.  Yes, it has been five years and we are still learning, getting frustrated and reassessing (okay, I am re-assessing) how to make improvements.

Sheepherding is a lot like signing in that having talent really makes things easier but neither signing well or sheepherding are easy endeavors.

People are familiar with herding dogs- especially with Border collies; but what people don’t know is how very difficult is to achieve success in herding be it at a trial for a ribbon or as a way of life.  Sure, the talent of the dog is really important and it will definitively make a difference in achieving really high marks but there is much more.

For example, get this:  The dog who is the one with the “natural” instinct to herd must at times forgoes his natural abilities and listen to what the handler is asking him to do. Wow! Right?

The dog also must be brave and confident - yet not pushy in order to move the herd (some species are more “flighty” than others so again another variant) yet, not so pushy that the herd will split in different directions - and now we have a problem. Instead, we must aim to keep the herd together and moving in the desired direction, be it a pen, a pasture etc.

For the past three weeks Deuce and I are working diligently in quite “approaches” as we are “driving” the sheep in a straight line. During the same session, we change the chore to gathering the sheep; that is the dog brings the entire herd to the handler. Our efforts are paying off.  This boy and I appear to be in sync. I cannot contain my appreciation and pride as a big smile flashes across my face.  Good lad, Deuce, good lad!

Today, is a different story. We begin well. Quite approaches that allows the herd to settle and it allows me to set up other opportunities to practice.

As I sent Deuce to gather the sheep, Deuce is either unable or unwilling to really open up (think of flaring out while running) thus keeping all the sheep together instead of going directly at them and splitting them.

We lose the sheep as we are working in an open field. I report to Mary, the person I have been working with all these years, that Deuce “is not covering” meaning he is not “flaring out” to include all the sheep but is “slicing” and splitting them apart. We try this same routine a few more times once I have thought of a better plan to help Deuce.

We end our session working on a large pen where we cannot lose the sheep as Mary and I try to assess if potentially Deuce is having some physical difficulty.

Sometimes a dog might be able to work with no problem clockwise say, but not counterclockwise.  I can promise you it is NEVER because the dog is stubborn.

However, there are many other reasons why this might happen. Sometimes the dog is sore, in pain or has some other physical disability such as blindness in one eye.  Of course, he would favor the healthy side!

It is only 10:00 am and already very hot.  Deuce does not do well with heat so I wrap up our efforts- time to pack it in and get in the car.  Deuce refuses.  Instead, he wants to lay in the shade provided by a parked car.  I usher him as best as I can and now he is in the comfort of car that has been in the shade.  He jumps in effortlessly (yeah!) and now he is taking big gulps of fresh water- still panting.

I get a bit somber. Is there something “wrong” with Deuce?  How can I help him?

Back at the wheel I start thinking of the importance of stepping back from situations like this and observe.  What can I learn by observing how Deuce moves? What he gravitates towards? Has he stopped doing some activity that he used to enjoy?  This is just simple questioning in the physical/athletic realm but wait! There is more… There is always something we can glean by observing and assessing. By asking the right question, different questions. By coming back again and again when we are not getting the results that we think are important.

So, let me ask you - such as I asked myself as I was driving back home from our lesson:

When was the last time that you took the time to finish a magazine article and completely enjoyed the process of reading while also grasping the content of the material?  When was the last time that you laid down on your back and slowed racing thoughts?

Exactly! This is the “more” peace that I am talking about. I don’t know about you, but for me one of my life/daily goal is to PAY MORE ATTENTION.

I want to show up to my life.  I want to show up over and over again to the relationships I treasure in my life.  And my dogs are among these precious relationships.

So, it begs the question: Can I slow down to observe more?  To know more about how my dogs are doing?  To enjoy them?  To share with them? Can I slow enough to make good decisions for them?  What a gift this is!  What a choice too, no?

Being the keeper of my dogs presents an opportunity for caring. For slowing all the things that appear so important and urgent. This opportunity is not only good for my dogs, it is also a pathway for being aware of my surroundings.   A pathway for being present in my life.

Our dogs are super chill

There is something called “learned irrelevance” and if you live with dogs you have experienced this my friends.  You have also experienced the opposite: your dog realizing that what is happening at the moment is frankly quite relevant to them.

Learned irrelevance refers to our dogs becoming keen observers of circumstance that mean nothing relevant from their perspective.  For example:  you turn the TV on after a long day at work and your dog has learned that when the TV is on he won’t be going for walkies -no tossing of the favorite ball either.

On the other hand, we have all experienced and even smiled at the fact that our dogs respond with exquisite punctuality to us putting our “walking-the-dog shoes” or in my case, the locking of my closet or just the sound of my leg going thru my pants as I get ready to go “outside”.  One of the biggest joy I experience is seeing my dogs getting super excited as we utter the phrase: Does anybody here want to go outside?????  or the short form: "Let’s go outsiiiiiideeee”. We know what the answer will be: YES, YES, YES!  We always want to go outside.

 

If you think about this, irrelevant or non-irrelevant circumstances are sort of a great thing. It allow our dogs to relax - as it is the case of my two hounds lying on their beds just after their breakfast as we I give them a rest so they can  digest their food before we go on a hike or toss the ball around.

Repetition and keen observation has taught them that when “mom” sits at the computer, nothing fun really happens, instead they can take a snooze.  But the moment I get off my chair I have a couple of dogs watching my every move and ones that are excited following me into my bedroom in hopes of witnessing the moment they have patiently waited for…. me putting my shoes on.

You see, this relevant/irrelevant scenario is actually part of a bigger picture phenomena.  This phenomenon has at least a couple of ethological facts:
1.    Dogs are always assessing their surroundings for safe/unsafe clues. In other words, they are constantly assessing if a scenario falls under “friend” or “foe”. All evolutionary irrelevant stuff.
2.    Dogs are always looking out for number one.  That is themselves. Ah, you got to love these amazing creatures who never miss a beat when it comes to them making sure that they remain safe and that they get the best bone, bed, scratch, etc. in the house.

Some folks resent dogs when they are just taking care of business; that is their business.  Instead, they much rather have a dog that wants to please them. Ah, come on people!  Why? Why do we insist of making a caricature of real dogs?  Why can we just appreciate the fact that they MUST look out for themselves as they assess daily what’s in it for them?  Don’t we just do the same??????

Why then the double standard?  The answer, I am afraid, lies in the sad but very powerful fact that humans, or at least most humans, subscribe to the idea that any other being except for the “precious” human race was put on earth to either entertain, fulfill our ego’s desires and expectations or work for our benefit.

But isn’t time that we begin to acknowledge that our dogs deserve to live lives that resonate with their own nature?  Isn’t time that we STOP engaging in infantile requests of our dogs and instead we begin to CELEBRATE their dogness?

How does our “love” translate to our pets?

I have a beef with rescue organizations when they equate a good home for a dog just purely based on love.  Yes, really.  So, my rumination begs the question: How does our love translate in our daily life with our pets?

Let me explain my position above.  Not long ago I had a client who told me that his fearful dog was going to get a lot of love. Implying that love alone would help the dog in dealing with the fear he had to most people and to almost all sorts of interactions with people - with the exception of the few folks the dog felt comfortable interacting with.

Weeks after having this conversation, my client decided that the behavior modification plan we had in place for his fearful dog was taking too long so he decided without any sort of a consultation to attach a shock collar on his smallish dog and shock the dog whenever the dog growled or barked at his clients.  When I asked to discuss with him the use of shocks to “help” his dog get more comfortable around his clients who would come to see him at his home, he told me that he could not afford having his dog bite someone because he could not be open to a possible lawsuit.

So, is the scenario above real love for his dog?  I don’t think so!  Of course, no one wants their dog to bite someone.  And of course, no one in their right mind would not take into consideration the possibility of being sued as a result of a bite.  But the question still remains. How do we love our dogs?

When are we actually ignoring what is best for the dog and we instead focus on our needs and we make decisions out of fear, regardless of how this bears on the well-being of our dog.

The point that I want to make is that very often people (including most rescue organizations) focus on the fuzzy feelings WE feel as a result of being in a relationship with a dog. The fuzzy feelings we feel when OUR needs for companionship, fun etc. are met. Indeed, yes, this is love but not necessarily love for the dog.

The relationship one can have with a dog can very well be similar to a relationship we have with a very small child, where we must be able to anticipate their needs and act accordingly. Other times, the relationship with our dogs looks more like the relationship we might have with a spouse.  Both adults with very specific needs and wants. Here we are entering compromise “city”. In order for this relationship to thrive, both partners need to take a close look at how they can acknowledge their partner’s needs, how to best understand them and reach a compromise that makes them both, at the very least, able to live with the decision.  Of course, our dogs are not negotiating with us the same way our partners do.  For one, dogs do not manipulate us! (LOL) Instead, they ask the best way the can for what they need and also for what they want.

In my view, “translate” is really an accurate word to use when it comes to love for our dogs, because while it might appear to us that we are loving our dogs, what we might be doing is concentrating on our needs. At times because we live in a complex world that puts incredible demands on our resources such as time, money, energy even in acquiring accurate knowledge about who dogs really are.  Sometimes of course, we are not truly loving our dogs but ourselves when we fail to take into consideration how our decisions big and small surrounding our dogs in particular and our live-in situation generally affects them.

Expensive behaviors in dogs (or, I’ll give you up to $10,000 for your seat).

The world watched in disbelief on social media the video of a man being dragged off a flight when he refused to surrender his seat once being boarded on a flight home. The injuries he sustained were quite salient and the uproar that the event caused has given way to some airlines now offering up to $10,000 for volunteers to surrender their seat as a result of an over booked flight.

Would you have given your seat (and all the charade that comes with this) for $200? $500? ...

You see, this is exactly why this (unlucky) passenger was not willing to give up his seat for what he considered a meager return for the inconvenience and the disruption this would cause to his life. In other words, the disruption to this passenger was seen as an “expensive” behavior. One that would require a reward to match it. The paltry offer from the airline was frankly not worth considering.

The same happens with our dogs. Their world also revolves around easy behavior and “expensive” behaviors. Another way of framing this very important fact of behavior and reinforcement is the typical saying of: “the punishment must fit the crime.” Same idea, but here we are focusing on the reinforcement (the reward). What do I get for doing “x”?

As the airline painfully learned, surrendering one’s seat is a VERY expensive behavior for most of us.

Dogs - and for that matter, all living beings formulated this same exchange: How much are you willing to give me for doing “that” or... WHY should I? This is what we would hear coming out of our dog’s mouths if they could speak our language. As I have explained in past blogs, dogs do what works for them. Period. This is by far not morally corrupt - it is just wired in their DNA, just like it is wired in ours.

 

One of the best kept secrets of influencing our dog’s behavior is to understand what behaviors are expensive to our dogs and which are more easily accomplished with less need for a reinforcement or a reinforcement of lesser value. The value of course, is always in the eyes of the beholder.

To cite a typical example: You want your dog to come to you, a VERY expensive behavior for most dogs, most of the time. Think about this: Here is your dog engaged in a doggy activity that fills his soul with purpose and happiness and now, and he has to come to you. If coming to you is achieved because you are insisting, cajoling or in some (other) way presenting an aversive to your pup as he reaches you, you, inadvertently just made the behavior of coming to you when called even more expensive for your dog.

We should be smarter, more generous and fair with our dogs, people. It behooves us to begin to acknowledge that we must pay for behaviors in relation to how expensive the behavior is for our dog. Here is a list of behaviors that are typically expensive for dogs:

1. Coming when called (stop engaging with what interests your dog at the moment you called him)

2. “Leave it” - Which strictly speaking is not a “behavior” as we are not really asking the dog to do something in particular but instead, asking him to stop engaging with something. However, as misconstrued as this is, having our dog disengage from the trash on the ground, another dog’s poop, your kid’s toy etc. is really something we all expect and desperately want our dogs to do.

3.  Not eating stuff that is within their reach on the kitchen counter or items related to food such as the plastic bag where we kept the cheese, hors d'oeuvre placed in the coffee table just before the guests arrive.

4.  Abandoning play with other dogs

5. Getting up from napping

6. Stopping on their tracks instead of chasing after prey or even the scent of prey.

7. Stop alerting - mainly by barking, at the front door or window when someone is at the door.

8. Abandoning a coveted resource such as a bone, toy etc.

9. Not chasing cars, cats, bikes, kids or runners- in short anything that moves!

The list my friends, goes on and on. Most of the behaviors above are hard for all dogs to perform. And they are particular behaviors that your dog might find to be really expensive but my dog will not.

The lesson here, (as the airlines have learned) is to first expect to pay when we make a request. We all want to be paid with stuff that is meaningful for us. Our dogs are no exception. Make it worth their while. 

Second point, pay in relation to how difficult it is to execute the behavior. Consider also that they are all kinds of circumstances that make easy behaviors harder to execute. 

For example: Your dog easily relinquishes to you a coveted resource, but now there is another dog in his proximity and your dog is not so keen on letting go of his precious resources because the other dog might snatch it away. 

Remember: behavior never happens in a vacuum so we must be painfully aware of the circumstance in which we expect our dog to perform or “obey” - a concept that makes me cringe. 

If we learn to pair handsome reinforcers for expensive behaviors suddenly we noticed that our pup is more able to comply with our ever demanding and never-ending requests. Paying appropriately produces great outcomes, because both parties are getting something they really want. 

As you learn to be more generous with your dog and your dog is more successful in coming to you— to cite an example, the more you will see the behavior take place. What an amazing bonus for being fair and savvy! 

And yes, in case you are wondering... ANY behavior that we want to see in our dogs (or children or spouse) must be reinforced in some way. When behavior is not reinforced it goes into extinction.

An interesting concept beyond the value of the reinforcer needed, is the frequency at which the reinforcer needs to be doled out in order to keep behavior strong and fluent. 

Recap: here is your recipe for success:
1. Ask yourself: how “expensive” is the behavior I am asking for my dog?

2. What would make it worthwhile for him?

3. Rinse and repeat many, many, many times... 

4. Witness your dog blossoming because you have become a generous and fair partner.

Should you muzzle your dog?

While dogs that wear muzzles often carry the stigma of being “bad” or “dangerous” and while that is really unfortunate, muzzles indeed are tools that can often not only keep people and other animals safe, but they can also - believe it or not, improve the life of the dog wearing it.

ANY dog - and I cannot emphasis this enough, can bite and will bite if he/she thinks that biting is the best option to defend itself. Or as the case might be, if in some way biting has been reinforced in the past most likely and under very similar circumstances the dog will bite again if not taught to do something different (a better “choice” -let’s call it). This “better behavior choice” must also address the motivation for the dog biting in the first place.

In other words, biting has proven to work for the dog in the past.  Dogs use strategies that have “worked” for them and abandon those that don’t.  Hey, let’s give them credit!  How often can we say that about ourselves as we appear to stumble on the same mistakes over and over again.

The question as to when to muzzle a dog also should take into consideration legal implications. Of course, this might vary depending on the local dog laws, but what I can say confidently - and without giving legal advice, is that a dog with a bite history under his belt would probably represent more of a liability should the owner be sued than one that is a first-time offender.

Another important consideration in deciding if a dog should use a muzzle and where it’s in relation to a dog having badly hurt or constantly hurt another dog.  It is a fact that dogs will get into fights (just like people get into arguments) however most of these fights are not so severe (and I am not talking here about the emotional toll of being “jumped on”) that warrants the dog going to the vet to get stitches for multiple or profound wounds.  The severity of the bite is in fact one of the many conditions needed to be considered in using muzzles as a management tool. This is especially salient for dogs that live together.

Now, I am not for one second advocating that dogs that have such terrible fights that warrant the ongoing use of a muzzle should remain living under the same roof. Keeping the dogs safe physically and emotionally under this very taxing situation is close to a nightmare and rarely impossible to execute with 100% reliability. Professionally I would advise as to what the best course of action might be for dogs that are injuring one another as a case-by-case basis where a lot of factors need to be understood and addressed.

However, I would most certainly advocate that any dog that has a history of injurious or multiple bites MUST be taught to be comfortable (and even enjoy) wearing a muzzle as part of a behavior modification program, and in many cases a way of life for both the dog and the owner. Of the upmost importance as well is that the dog wears a muzzle when in public.

Now the good news is, that yes, indeed, dogs can learn to enjoy wearing a muzzle. Dogs can learn pretty much anything. I would argue that a dog should not wear a muzzle if the preliminary work that takes to teach him to be comfortable with the muzzle has not been done. What happens is that when most dogs are fitted with a muzzle without a preliminary well thought out plan that is also well executed we are de facto setting up the dog to have a bad association with wearing one and now the quality of life I was referring to has gone by the waste side.

Unfortunately, for the owners of dogs who have already bitten the stigma of having their muzzled dog in public constitutes an ongoing PR nightmare.  My clients whose dogs have bitten someone and now wear muzzles in public tell me that at times strangers comment to them for being “responsible dog owners” (BRAVO! Stranger) while also, strangers are not shy in telling the owner that they “should” put to sleep such dangerous dogs!  Without knowing anything about the dogs, its history, etc.  How unfair this is.

Yes, ignorance about the ethology of dogs is really rampant. Add to the mix, the deep-seeded fear that humans have of animals that can potentially bite and you end up with a judgmental person that does very little to support the efforts of indeed responsible and educated dog guardians.

In my perfect world, we all see dogs for who they really are: A-MAZING!  But also, potentially biting machines that can produce a bite with great force in a split of second. In my perfect world, dogs are taught before they even have a bite on their resume, that muzzles are fun and potentially having to wear one is no big deal, and it might indeed just be the ticket to continued play with other dogs, being walked in public, etc.

Also, in my perfect world, we stop judging people for muzzling their dogs because after all, they are the ones that love that dog, that know that dog and the ones that need our support and admiration instead of our sharp tongues.

Final note: The ONLY type of muzzle that a dog should wear is one that is fitted properly and that allows the dog to pant (literally open its mouth comfortably), take treats and even drink some water. Yes, maybe this will have to be modified by giving the dog water via a water bottle squirting some liquid out instead of the dog drinking out of a water bowl.  Dogs can only regulate their body heat by panting and their paws, so if the dog cannot pant while being exercised- even when it is cool outside, it won’t be able to regulate its body temperature.  You now have a potential emergency situation or worse, the dog dying of heat stroke. The muzzle to use is called (a) basket muzzle (pictured in this entry) and are not the ones that groomers and vets use often in their practice.

Slowing down and its benefits: Your dog will thank you.

Slowing down has many benefits.  It permits us to enjoy what is in front of us- begging for our undivided attention.  It allows us to make better decisions, it calms frail nerves and it splendidly reminds us that while the clock is ticking we can choose to show up to live our lives.

So, what then might slowing down with our dogs bring? Besides the tremendous pleasure of becoming an observant of their most individual qualities, slowing down and making a habit of observing our pups can be a very important first step in seeing their world from their perspective.  What is it that they like to do?  When?  Where do they prefer to lie?  Do they lie on their side or belly up with four legs gently bending downward?  Or perhaps the curl up in an almost perfect ball of fur. Are they sick when their food goes untouched? Or is it that the other dog in the household is perhaps harassing them and they cannot get to their bowl to eat?

Slowing down is not only pleasurable with our dogs, but it is indeed of paramount importance in understanding exactly what might be triggering in them a not so perfect reaction. Dogs are excellent discriminators and because of this, tiny stuff makes a huge difference to dogs. Besides being such discriminators, dogs also are always looking out for their safety, for a sense of comfort.

Their avid sense of discrimination is all good news when it comes to doing any behavior modification because as such we can hone via our training plan to the exact trigger or scenario that elicits that which we choose to change. On the other hand, the need to be so very precise makes behavior modification complex.

For my part, I love this aspect of my job.  Paying close attention to nuances in a dog’s response and coming up with a training plan (s) to targets the specifics of what makes the dog uneasy or really afraid makes my work very enthralling. This is also where the rubber meets the road …If one does not give careful consideration to these tiny yet very crucial aspects of modifying behavior, the results will be paltry at best.

There is another aspect that is vital in addressing *exactly* what in the environment or the interaction is making the dog act in a certain way.  Every good training plan has quite a few steps and sometimes these steps must be presented in a smaller dosage so to speak, so that the dog can learn and then perform.  Not only will the dog’s confidence soar when they are successful BUT every single instance the dog gets it “right” the new and desirable behavior can be reinforced.  And whatever gets reinforced (over and over again) the more likely it will become the default behavior.

I don’t know about you, but I have made the close and meticulous observations of my dogs one of the central themes in my life. I observe them often- daily!

My closing: almost intimate observations makes their quirks come to light.  I also know their preferences and their small misgivings.   My choice of slowing down and engaging in observing my dogs has made my life very rich. And can you think then of a better reason why one should keep in the company of dogs?  I don’t!

How much exercise is too much?

We have had a lot of commotion these past few weeks with a very lengthy board & train, followed by a very short break in action to then me leaving town and having again more commotion with a friend staying at my home with her pup.

Back from my trip and now resuming our routines, I proceed to gather what is needed for the morning exercise routine for the dogs. We begin as we always do, but I notice shortly thereafter that Deuce is taking a rest after almost every retrieve of the ball.  Later on, Rio sort of bails out on our favorite game.  Huh?

I am sort of relived because I have a nasty cold and I’d much rather just stay inside so I call it a day shortly after.

I am left wondering as to what might be going on.  The dogs appear normal – no one is lame.  I do notice that they are sleeping more than usual so I concluded that they are just tired. Period.

This makes sense as I review the past weeks. Dogs, just like us, can become over stimulated physically or mentally when there are too many changes in their environment or routine. Think about how fun it is to travel yet how exhausting it all is.

Most dogs frankly do not get enough physical exercise on a regular basis, which it is a real shame. I am often asked about this and my rule of thumb -which I read somewhere and acquired as my own because it made sense, is that we want our pups to be tired at least once a day, everyday. By tired I mean that your dog will come back home with her tongue hanging out and a happy expression followed by wanting some water and plopping themselves down for a nap!

The guidelines on how much time is required do vary from breed to breed and from individual to individual. Now, when it comes to young puppies and up to the 2 year of age marker, the guidelines on how much exercise and of what kind really matters. Before reaching full maturity dog’s skeletal system and joints are not fully formed and doing too much or the wrong kind of physical activity, such as high jumps will most definitively have a detrimental effect on this dog’s physical well-being later in life. Following your veterinarian’s guidelines on this is really important.

I would argue the same is true for too much mental stimulation. In the case of Rio and Deuce they got more of both mental and physical stimulation than their norm so as a result they spent the first day without any “canine guests” really sacked out.

I can almost guarantee, that most dogs that attend doggie daycare, come home exhausted not so much because they really get a lot of play in. I surely doubt this, as most daycares curtail too high of activity in order to keep things in check. Most likely these pups come home mentally tired because they got to be around lots of excitement and potentially for some lots of stress too :(

My overall recommendation is of course that we monitor our own dog’s well-being by making sure that they get to have enough of what they like in the form of physical and mental stimulation, but also remaining alert to signs of real exhaustion and a much-needed break from the action and increase of quiet time.

Be ready then to observe for any changes in their behavior or their increased (or decreased) interest in a favorite activity.  Of course, there might be other reasons behind these changes.  However, if we choose to slow down ourselves in our own flurry of activity and pay attention to the changes in our dogs we can best change a course of action peppered by yet more keen observation.  I guess slowing down the constant flow of stimuli has benefits for all but our dogs do need of our devoted attention as they might not be able to make the necessary changes to their lifestyle.

Three different strategies

I am behind closed doors taking some quiet time in.  My rambunctious board & train just realized that I am in my bedroom and she is adamant to get in. I do my best to ignore her barking at the door. I begin counting:

1,2,3,… I manage to not acknowledge her barking.  She stops the barking, but begins to whine. Her whining sounds so miserable, that one would think someone is really inflicting some bodily harm to this girl. I go back to counting as I try to breath deeper.  Once again she stops.  Good!  I think now I can go back to “quiet”.

Seconds later she decides that she will try yet another strategy just to make sure I know she wants in.

This time she begins scratching at the door. Okay, I lose it here. I definitively don’t want nail tracks on my wooden door.  I yell at her to go lie down and… the scratching stops!

Minutes later when I come out from puppy-hiding I see her lying almost asleep just outside my bedroom door… good dog! I tell her.  We resume with our day.

It is the nature of behavior to have different manifestations or responses that while manufactured by a given motivation have different expressions.  Dogs behave following this rule.  They try different strategies to what they want or need. Once they realize a strategy is not producing the intended results they try something else. Sometimes they will escalate the response just in case it works this one time as it did before.  This is called an extinction burst. In essence, there is an escalation (I know real fun sometimes) of the behavior or strategy before it is abandoned completely by the dog because it is not working. 

What does this mean to us- keeper of pups?  It means that we can pretty much pick and choose which of their responses work for us. If I had let my B&T in the minute she began to bark at the door what have I just reinforced?  Her barking. So now whenever she wants closeness or my attention she will try that first.  Laws of learning point to the fact that whatever behavior we reinforce we will see more of so be mindful as dogs are learning all the time, not only when boarded with a trainer or in a training class, let’s say.

Now, the example above is a really good one because it illustrates how “messy” life can be.

My board & train tried three different strategies, none of them were successful as I did not open the bedroom door. Instead, I asked her to do something else that suited my purposes but perhaps not hers.

Why then do you think that she finally chose to lie down after me asking her to do so? Well because lying down has worked for her in the past!  Having a dog lying quietly on their bed when I am trying to work or cooking is high on my list of trained behaviors. In her case, we had practiced over and over again with her lying down as a requisite for my attention or a piece of whatever I was cooking - if appropriate, etc.

As I teach new behaviors to a “green” dog- that is a young dog or one that has not had a lot of “formal” learning I must make sure that I do not just ask, but instead that I set things up so that the dog can be successful in understanding what I am asking her to do.

As the dog learns a given behavior in one context, say in my example lying down on the bed provided when I am in the kitchen so that she is not underfoot, I can begin to ask for that same behavior which is now fluent in the first context; in new context or situations. As I do this, I need to consider that while the dog has learned this well in one specific situation it is as a brand-new request in a different context.

Practice does make permanent.  Once a dog can perform a behavior in different contexts we can say with certainty that the behavior has generalized- something dogs do not do well.