Time to Integrate

After spending two weeks with us, I returned MAKIS, (aka "Puppy X") back to the shelter. That same morning she participated in a TTouch™ program for volunteers where she got firsthand experience with different people who stroked her and taught her that touch can be enjoyable.

I was feeling really sad to know that she would no longer be running freely with my dogs. I will also miss seeing her acting like a totally normal and rambunctious puppy enjoying life and getting herself in typical puppy-trouble. She had begun to show more typical puppy behaviors as she learned to relax more at our home. I had to keep even closer tabs on her now because she discovered that perhaps the legs of the coffee table or the upholstery of our chair could be “fun” to chew. She even responded to me singing the song of “lets go outside” as both Rio and Deuce do.

Yikes! It is impossible for me not to get attached to the dogs that I bring home from the shelter and Makis (named after one of my nieces) was no exception!

Once back at the shelter, Makis who was overdue for one of her puppy-vaccines, had to be housed alone. My heart sank as I saw her curl up into an almost perfect ball at the end of the pen. So in my own way, I “told” Makis that this next step was a continuation of what will turn out to be a much better life for her and that she – just like any other being in this world, would have to learn not only to survive but to thrive! I left her behind – holding back the tears.

Later on as I hung out with Deuce and Rio I had a thought pop into my head that gave me some solace: I had earlier that day mentioned to the participants of the TTouch training, of the importance of giving animals time to integrate a new experience. I thought then about Makis at the shelter. I wanted her to have a “roommate” from the get-go. The roommate would not only keep her company but she/he could serve as her role model as to how to positively interact with people. I realized now the fact that Makis needing to spend a night on her own seemed like a great idea! If she had been housed with another puppy or even an adult dog it was very likely that they would engage in play, instead of Makis sleeping. Makis in her isolation and “quiet time” would have an opportunity to do just that: integrate new learning.

The following day, I checked to find out how she was doing and was sent a picture of Makis with her new pal. An older and very friendly white pitty (pit-bull).

Tomorrow, I will go to the shelter to continue working with her. And once again, I will “remind” her that she has a bright future ahead…

Three practical applications for muzzles

When it comes to using equipment during training or for a dog to wear I tend to be very practical. I realized people have a budget and at times it is easy to rely too heavily on a tool without having the dog really learn the necessary skills.

However there is one piece of equipment that I find myself recommending more and more for my clients - sometimes it is a pre-requisite for training. That piece of equipment is a muzzle. Muzzles have in some circle a “bad rep”. I have heard some clients expressing concerned about how the general public might perceive their dog for wearing a muzzle or they themselves begin to perceive the dog as “dangerous,” “aggressive” etc. There are times, however, when a muzzle is mandatory and the difference between a dog biting someone, a liability, or the dog being put down because of local ordinances after a bite(s).

There are other circumstances in which a muzzle is really a good training tool say at the vet’s office or even in the event of an evacuation should you and your dog have to stay at a local shelter where only muzzled dogs are permitted. For this last reason alone I am working with both my dogs in making sure that the muzzle is not aversive for them but that they learn to be comfortable having one on should the need arise.

The trick is to do the work way before you need to have your dog muzzled so that when you need to do so (if ever) the experience will not be even more traumatizing to the two of you.

But, what kind of muzzle is the right one?

Here is some information that might shed some light and a simple training plan to get you and your dog started with this important training. I recommend using a sturdy basket muzzle versus a muzzle known as a “groomer’s muzzle”. With a basket muzzle your dog will be able to breathe even pant comfortably while wearing it and because of this it is the only safe choice when your dog is doing any kind of physical activity (dogs do not perspire like we do the only way they can regulate body heat is by their paws and through their mouths by panting). A “groomers” muzzle should NEVER be worn by a dog outside the vet clinic or the groomers and again here, having your dog accustomed to it will make the experience much more pleasant for the dog and the staff.

Besides choosing the right kind of muzzle make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for proper sizing and fitting. A muzzle that comes off is no good, so do pay attention. Once you have selected the muzzle follow the plan below of helping your dog associate the muzzle with something really positive. This might not be a weekend project but one worth while pursuing.

Introducing the muzzle.
To make your dog associate the muzzle with good things, get out the yummiest treats you can think of, and follow the steps below. The steps can be done in one session or over several, depending on your dog’s comfort level.

Step 1: Reach through and treat.

• Hold the muzzle up with one hand so your dog notices it.
• Reach through the muzzle with your other hand to give your dog a treat.
• Repeat 3-6 times.
• From now on, every time your dog sees the muzzle, treat him. When the muzzle goes away, stop treating.

Step 2: Nose in the muzzle for treat.

• Cup the muzzle with one hand. Hold the treat so your dog has to put his nose into or through the muzzle to get the treat.
• As soon as the treat is gone, remove the muzzle.
• Repeat until your dog voluntarily sticks his nose into the muzzle to get the treat.
• Now treat several times really quickly so your dog keeps his face in the muzzle for 2-3 seconds.
• Repeat until he can keep the muzzle on for 10 seconds with you delivering a treat every few seconds.

Step 3: Nose in the muzzle and buckle for treat.

• Load the muzzle up with treats. While your dog eats, hold the neck straps behind his neck and apply light pressure. As soon as he finishes the treats, take off the muzzle.
• Next, have your dog put his nose in the muzzle, hold the neck straps, and then start feeding the treats through the muzzle. Repeat this exercise until your dog will keep his head in the muzzle for 3-5 seconds before you start treating.
• Have your dog put his nose in the muzzle, but now close the buckle and unleash a bunch of treats, preferably something extra delicious. When the treats are gone, take off the muzzle.

Step 4: Wearing the muzzle for treat and walk.

• Put the muzzle on and immediately take your dog for a fun walk. Take some treats with you and dish them out along the way.

Practical Survival Guide to Canine Adolescence

Rioja: sit, leave it! Go to your mat please, no! Off the bed… thank you! Here….(Waiting, waiting…) Oh gooood girl! Get off the kitchen counter (really??!) Sush. Too bad for you… Time out!! (As I escort her outside for her 30sec. time out for continuous barking without a cause).

Ah, the throws of adolescences! Rioja is now 1 years old and smack in the middle of doggie adolescence. She has developed “selective hearing” and an ability to decide when to bark out of control as well as a fantastic habit of jumping on top of the kitchen counter. I have never been able to see her jumping up. I am curious to find out how much “prep” she must do in order to do so, I have “only” seen her on top of the counter scouting the lower elevations like a hawk.

She still cracks me up most of the time. And when I catch myself being frustrated with her, I remind myself that this part of adolescence is also fun. Dogs live such short lives that they move with the speed of a meteor through their development: Day one you have a puppy - puppy breath included, before you know it your lovely pup is already five months the crucial time when other adult dogs are not so lenient and begin to “correct” your cute yet obnoxious dog for inappropriate behaviors. Then in no time your dog has turned two and entering social maturity. Of course these stages are not fixed in stone, it varies with the breed of the dog and the individual. Larger breeds and males might not fully mature until the age of three.

Mind you that most dogs are surrendered at shelters during this period. Their owners get frustrated and not really knowing how easy it is to sail through an (almost) sane adolescences with your dog if  you only understood a few things…

During adolescences, dogs begin to explore their environment. They engage fully with all their senses. The pup that once relished being close to you during off-leash romps, now would much rather go see about a cat or another dog. Play between dogs also suffers especially in males who will squabble with other dogs. Squabbles between dogs are NORMAL dog behavior and development. It is actually rare to have a  male dog that has not been in a squabble. The good news is that most fights do not result in injury.

At home you might find, just like I am with Rioja, that your pups manners take a sharp turn downhill. For this reason, it is really imperative to continue working with your dog in basic manners. Ignoring the problem and the dog will only make matters worse! You might also witness how your once friendly-to-all-pup is growling and moving away from people. Please do something about this! Remind your once friendly pup that people mean awesome things for him/her: this is when the super yummy treats come out, or you get to play your dog’ favorite game, etc.

Keep in mind that in order to have a dog that feels comfortable around people of all kinds, we MUST continue with the socialization efforts- the same goes for dogs being friendly to (most) dogs… social isolation which in many cases becomes the norm once the dog leaves puppyhood, will be to blame if your now mature dog engages in displays of fear or aggression towards either people or other dogs.

The best approach for building your dog’s confidence and a smooth sailing through this stage is to incorporate little training sessions (we are talking 3 minute long training sessions) peppered throughout the day and immersed in your daily routine. For example: make sure your dog has ample daily mental and physical stimulation in the form of walks, off-leash romps (if appropriate), eating out of food-dispensing toys, an occasional class that you both enjoy. In addition, practice sit/stays when cooking dinner, wait at doors, and going in and out of the car. Permission to get on couches and your bed - if this is something you allow in your household.

Practicing leave it when it comes to undesirable objects your dog might pick-up during walks or at home. Make sure your dog gets to meet people while on walks or at least that he/she gets a morsel of food every time you both encounter someone in your walk. Invite friends over and practice safely with the UPS delivery person.

Now, it goes without saying that in order for you both to “practice” a given behavior it means that your dog has had prior learning of those behaviors. It is useless and unfair to ask a dog to do something when the dog has not had the proper training to learn a behavior you now wish to practice.

My advice here is that you honestly assess what behaviors (and in what context) your dog has had the opportunity to practice from puppy-hood. If your dog’s repertoire is not what you need in order to live a fun and relaxing life with him/her then by all means enroll in a class or do some private training. The saying: pay now or pay later really applies in this context.

When it comes to making sure that your adult dog enjoys the company of people and dogs, on-going exposure to these demographics paired with something positive is the way to go. However, if your dog has fear/aggression issues to either people or dogs please make sure that your dog is not put in a situation that he/she cannot handle. Get professional help since the problem will not go away.