Why Training & Behavior Modification Fails

I am talking to my colleague about a recent case he had. We are discussing different possibilities as to why training or behavior modification might not produce the results we would like.  We toss around ideas and I settle for three possibilities:

1.    The technique or techniques employed are either not appropriate or they are not being used correctly.
2.    Lack of client compliance.
3.    Not enough training.
4.    Unrealistic or non-specific goals to obtain as a result of the training.

As I explained to my colleague, these are my thoughts on the possibilities above:

1.    Here is an example to illustrate what happens so very often when people are trying to have their dog stop doing something they don’t like.  As soon as the dog engages in the behavior,  which in essence it’s the “symptom” or “symptoms,” of the observable and quantifiable behavior of the dog’s inner motivation, the owner might say “no” or give a correction such as a leash “pop,” or use all sorts of techniques to admonish the dog. Sometimes the owner might remove the dog from the interaction or at least block visual access to the stimulus.

2.    However, what is missing in all these very common scenarios is that the dog has really not learned any other alternatives for behaving.  The result of all these actions on the part of the owner *might* result in suppressing the behavior; most likely because the dog got scared that he will be hurt or scared again.  But as you can see, there is truly no behavior modification taking place.

Let’s dive deeper: Is the suppression of the behavior permanent?  I would venture to say, that in most cases the answer is no.  Because in order for a behavior  to become extinct several conditions need to be met such as: there is nothing else motivating that same behavior. The interesting thing here is that behaviors often have multiple motivations behind them.  For example: A dog is yelled at and given a leash correction for lunging at another dog.  The dog stops for a “while,” but he still will lunge at dogs while on leash because he’d much rather act in a way that might make the other dog “go away” and lunging in the past has worked. The fear that this dog experiences when a scary stimulus is too close will trump the fear of being yelled at or even given a correction that hurts! It might be also the case that the dog has not really generalized that the behavior the owner is trying to suppress will carry intimidation or pain in all instances.

Here is a typical example a lot of pet parents have experienced:  They do not want the dog getting on their sofa, when the dog gets on the sofa, the owner yells at the dog “Nooooo” or gives it a squirt with a water bottle or… Okay finally the dog does get off the sofa. Now, do you think the dog will not get on the sofa when the owner is not present? I think we can safely guess that in most cases the dog will get on the sofa when alone at home, so technically, the behavior of getting on the sofa is not truly gone into extinction. Okay, okay, I hear you enough with the Animal Learning stuff! What is one to do instead?

Ah, great question!  Troubleshooting is at the center of modifying our dog’s behavior.

First off, let me say that in my example of the dog lunging at another dog while on leash is most likely motivated by what is called proximity sensitivity.  In essence the lunging dog has had a bad (or several) bad experiences when he was being restrained in some way and interacted with another dog. So now, he is motivated by fear and wants the other dog to get the message he does not want anything to do with him and if he continues in its proximity (or moves closer) things can get “really ugly.”  So, in my very ubiquitous example, the lunging dog’s most pressing motivation is fear.

Now, to make things even more interesting, this dog might be afraid of dogs when restrained BUT he is also curious about smelling the other dog (after all this is how dogs say hello, right?). This is because he actually really likes to romp around with other dogs when everyone is off-leash. If we can peg the most pressing motivation, we should start there in coming up with appropriate measures to teach the lunging dog some new stuff. My first goal here would be to teach him that dogs in close proximity (we start with being far away - where the dog can tolerate the presence of the other dog) that dogs on leash mean really good things for him and not painful stuff such as leash pops  or a tightening prong collars on the neck. Once this happy customer realizes that his displays of defensive aggression in other words: “A Go away!  Go away!” strategy  will not be met with more pain or fear, the dog begins to relax. And now we can teach the dog more appropriate behaviors that will take the place of the lunging (or whatever other “inappropriate behaviors” the dog had learned) to do when in the presence of dogs while being restrained.  What is really interesting and a second bonus of using the correct strategy is that as the dog practices the new behavior; say looking at the dog for a few short seconds, and then being asked to look away, the dog is also learning to tolerate the proximity of dogs because he is not associating the presence of dogs with being choked with a collar, yelled at or even worse. 

I realize the thinking above is not necessarily intuitive to most folks, but I am here to tell you that if one understands the power of positive and negative association and their role in learning folks will be best suited to help their dogs.

As for my second example of the dog not getting on the sofa when the family is home but doing so when alone, the truth is that while some dogs might get the message and not get on the sofa when unsupervised, I would think of this example as a management situation versus a training scenario. It comes down to priorities in training. Most folks do not have the interest in spending time on behaviors like this when they or their dogs have bigger fish to fry.  Management means that we make changes in the environment to prevent the dog in engaging in a specific behavior. Perhaps making the sofa inaccessible to the dog and providing him with a very comfy bed. Reinforcing the dog for lying on the bed when we are around are some ideas.

Next post I will continue exploring the two other points. I hope you will join me in the conversation by reading the blog.

Teaching Lie Down To Come Inside or Go Outside

How does your dog tell you that he wants to go out or come in when let outside?   Perhaps your dog is like Rico who would scratch at the door in order to signal he wanted to come inside.

Rico had learned all sorts of new stuff.  The previous week I taught him how to lie down.  This next session we were finally putting the behavior on a verbal cue- which I like to introduce only when the dog is lying down without me having to offer him a food lure. As I arrived to the session and to my surprise, Rico greeted me in his typical effusive manner, but shortly thereafter he did lie down! Some dogs really know how to turn the charm on!

Rico’s “mom” mentioned that she did not like Rico scratching at the screen door to let her know he wanted in.  So, I suggested we try having Rico lie down outside as his signal of wanting to come in. We set it up so that Rico was outside and I remained inside ready to pay him when he would lie down.  I was confident he would lie down in order to be let in.

The reason I thought this was because he had just been reinforced for lying down.  We have ample proof that whatever behavior gets reinforced, will be repeated.  You see, dogs are really smart.  They do what works and they abandon any behavior that is not reinforced in some way. Pretty brilliant, right?

It did not take long before Rico was lying down outside and next to the door. We practiced for a few trials and it took him less and less time with every trial to realize that lying down was the “correct” response to be let in.  I love it when I can find an acceptable behavior for both parties!

Here is how you can teach your dog to stop scratching at the door or even barking, and instead politely lie down to have the door open.

First, you need to make sure your dog has truly learned what lie down (or down) means. You can find out if your dog’s lie down is up to fluency if you ask your dog to lie down and he can comply with at least 85% or more correct answers.  Anything under this requires more practice in order to make the behavior fluent.  If your dog needs a refresher, read below for some tips in teaching him this very handy behavior.

Lure your dog into a down (from a sit) by:

1. Placing a treat in front of your dog’s front paws.
2. Treat for lowering the head/neck.
3. Bending the elbows.
4. Bending of the knees or at the hip.
5. Going all the way down.

Use of An Empty Hand Signal:

1. Remove the treat from your hand and with an EMPTY hand. 
2. Give your dog the EXACT same hand signal you did while holding food in your hand.  Your dog might hesitate at this point.  Be patient and give your dog time to process.  At this point you can pay your dog for a behavior that he has learned well (like a sit) to keep him interested in continuing working with you.
3. Reward your dog for lowering the elbows, knees or even the neck at this point. Pay for any of these approximations.
4. Once your dog is lowering his belly all the way to the ground and has done this consistently for 5 trials, it’s time to introduce the verbal cue lie down or down.

Introducing the Verbal Cue:
When using a verbal cue AND a hand signal it is CRUCIAL that you first give the dog the hand signal and then the verbal cue and not both at the same time.  Dogs will default to minding our body language over verbal cues so if you give both of them at the same time (hand signal and verbal cue) your dog will not learn the verbal cue.

• Once your dog is fluent in lying down when you ask him to do so, you can ask with abandonment.
• Practice in different locations inside your home, a café if this is a typical outing for your dog, etc.
• Occasionally pay your dog for lying down, otherwise the behavior will go into extinction.

Training for Success:
We ALWAYS want our dog to succeed so that we can reward them. Remember that whatever behavior gets rewarded you will see more of.  Please train/practice with the following guidelines below:

Practice each new behavior five times (five trials) in a row.  Depending on the success of your dog for that particular exercise you will…

• PUSH: If your dog is successful five out of five trials… push to the next step.
• STICK: If your dog is successful three out of five trials… keep practicing at this level until he/she improves.
• DROP: If your dog is successful two or one out of five trials…keep practicing at this level until he/she improves.

Now you are ready to generalize the behavior, which means teaching your dog that “lie down” (or down- pick your cue and stick to it) means putting the belly on the ground when you ask in the living room, outside, inside the car.  This is a skill that dogs find challenging so do not skip this step.

Teaching your dog to lie down to be let in:

Make sure you take your dog outside where you want him to eventually lie down and ask for the behavior. Pay handsomely. Repeat a few times.

You can stop here and practice a bit more another day or after a few trials outside, try leaving your dog outside while you go inside and wait for him to lie down on his own.  When he does, open the door immediately and let him in to cash in on the prize.  Repeat a few times making sure your dog gets paid for every correct response besides letting him come inside.  In your next session you can practice with having your dog inside next to you at the door.  It would be easier if you warm him up with a few trials of lying down before requesting the behavior at the door.

In time you can stop paying your dog for lying down when wanting “door services” and use the opening of the door as the reinforcement for him lying down first.

One of your dogs is injured, but you have two (or more) dogs. How are you going to handle this?

As I am writing this I am sitting next to my two dogs. They are both lying down, but Rio unfortunately is wearing one of those very cumbersome Elizabethan collars.  She just underwent surgery a week ago and we are looking at to 8 -10 weeks of lying low with little in the form of physical activity and lots and lots of management.  On the other hand, Deuce is not recuperating, and as such, he is ready to do what we do every morning - chasing after the ball or hiking.

Yep, sometimes I am overwhelmed.  I am constantly having to plan when and how to go from one activity to the next while working with clients as I try to keep my sanity. I guess this is a good example where I need to really dial up my “Zen”.  Zen in taking some time to take stock in how to move Rio safely from one spot to the other, in remembering to wrap her cast when it’s wet outside and she needs to go pee in a hurry.
Zen,
Having systems in place is very helpful.  My systems include ways by which I can keep all the medication times and dosages straight. The same goes in planning what to do with her when I am outside exercising Deuce. Instead of throwing it all in at the last minute, I establish new routines. Simple things such as Rio not being able to eat out of her customary food bowl, can really wreak havoc on the list of do’s & don’ts that we need to follow for her recuperation.

Besides deciding what kind of activities she can still do so that she gets some mental stimulation, and as best as possible keeping her life as intact as possible, I also make sure I follow the household routines for Deuce.

Yes, there is also the emotional component:  it is hard to go play with your healthy dog (s) while the other one rests in her crate. When I feel a bit down I quickly remind myself of our ultimate goal behind the surgery:  Rio will be able to do all the activities she loves to do, but with being pain free. I even tell her (more for my benefit, mind you, than hers) that this is not her new life, just her new life for right now and that we will get through this together by focusing on what needs to happen and keeping the eye on the big picture: no (more) pain and back to lots of fun as we did before.

It is also important to take stock of activities that both dogs can enjoy such as chewing a tasty bone, getting some one-on-one training or even getting brushed for tasty treats.

I cannot say this enough, slowing down has been tremendously helpful in keeping my sanity as well as rolling with the punches. Of course, it helps when John can then dedicate some one-on-one attention to both dogs.

A solution, of course, is one can also hire competent help when the need arises. Perhaps someone that can stop by and give Rio a break from the plastic (hideous) cone and take her out to eliminate.  Or what about having a favorite person read a story to her, while Deuce and I go sheepherding?  Or having someone come to take Deuce for a walk?

It is important too to not underestimate physical touch and closeness. In my case, one of my dogs wants it because she is not feeling totally “normal” and the other is stressed due to thunder in the vicinity. I take a big sigh and relax into my role of caregiver as I gravitate like a tired planet around the sun between the two dogs, delivering words of encouragement as well as some TTouches. 

Dog centric training

I am working with a soft-spoken gentleman and his spunky over-the-top Border collie mix.  I am called because his dog is chasing the chickens when they are let out of their fancy coop to meander and peck here and there.  When I ask him, he in informs me that he wants the dog to stop stalking and chasing the chickens. Period.

In his defense, this is his first dog. So clearly he is not yet versed in “dogness”. I begin working with the dog away from the chickens and I am impressed by the ability this dog has to follow instructions while enjoying himself tremendously as I toss treats at him that he gets to catch mid-air. My kind of dog: alert, responsive, over the top.  I see potential.  I see also a fantastic learning partner.

I almost want to tell the owner that his problems will be resolved as I am taking this dog with me- I like him that much!  But no, I know I shall not covet my client’s dogs so I get back to dog-centric training and the task at hand.

Instead I tell Jim, the owner, who also reports to me - that his dog pulls so hard on lead that it makes it impossible to walk him without fearing his shoulder will be pulled out of its socket, that if we work on the loose leash not only will he be able to take leisure walks with his new best friend, but this will also help with the chickens.

Huh!  He sort of retorts back to me.  How can the two things be related?
You see, I tell him, we are working with the individual: the dog and not the “symptoms” or the behaviors that we don’t like. I believe so strongly on this premise that I have the adjective of “holistic” in my dog training business (C.H.A.C.O.) A Compassionate, Holistic, Approach to Canine Obedience and Training”.

I continue by explaining that his dog, Spark, is chasing chickens because the chickens are moving and moving is something that triggers predatory behaviors in dogs.  With the orientation to the prey as one of the first behaviors the dog engages as part of the chain of behaviors (7 in total) to secure food.

In addition, Spark is truly unable to listen to him because he is just too close to this incredible stimulation.

Seeing all this from the perspective of the dog is so important.  As we continue discussing the options for training Spark, I remind Jim that his goals might be obtainable but definitively not a weekend project.

Jim is now more in tune with how dogs learn and is willing to do whatever it takes to keep his pal and the chickens safe.  Good, I tell him. My second task now is to explain to Jim that his goals are not the process, but just where the process might lead us.

Again, a truly important aspect of teaching any living creature.  We must know where we want to go - as if following a road map that will take us to the correct location and once we know our specific goal (s) we must sharply have focused on the how we will get there.  Process and goals are both important aspects of co-existing peacefully with our dogs.  They are as well, essential components of any training.

The following week Jim and I are meet again and I begin working with both of them with loose leash walking. Teaching Jim what to do when Spark’s pull but mostly teaching Spark that the fastest way to get to where he wants to go is by not pulling at all! We continue working with other fun games that will promise to turn Spark into a dog that can wait for directions versus acting as a ‘bull in a China shop”. Jim is picking up things very quickly.

Thru the weeks, as the team progresses with the exercises that I leave behind for them to practice we begin working with the chickens.  Now we can incorporate all the hard work we have done away from the chickens because Spark has great reliability on behaviors that at first were unthinkable for Jim to see his dog execute.  Our efforts begin to pay off.

Jim has also learned that there is no reason why we should expect Spark not to act like what he is - a predator, so he has learned that managing Spark with the chickens is essential to the success of our program.

Sure, it is possible that with continuous and deliberate practice (and adding a dose of age for good measure) Spark will learn to relax in close proximity of the moving, pecking birds.  For now, Jim appears more accepting and also more willing to see his beloved dog as a dog; meeting him half way in the journey they are both embarking on.

For my part, I feel so very happy that Jim is willing to work with his pup from a dog-centric perspective. As a result, he has come to the understanding that his dog must not be put in a situation that he cannot possibly be successful at. Since, just like us, his pup will be more successful at the task at hand on some days and struggle on others.

Dog-centric training requires a deep understanding of the species we are working with and a true willingness to work within their nature and capabilities as well as adjusting our own expectations.

 Isn’t this what we all want from others? Our dogs are not that different from us in this respect.

Give them what they want!

As part my training services, I offer board & train. For many folks this is a very interesting option because they can either travel or just take a break from their pup while I work with them.  Because the pup is going to be staying at my home, I do have certain requirements such as all dogs must get along.

Recently I had an inquiry from a potential client that needed to leave her newly acquired dog in good care while she traveled. I met with her and her dog, and based on what I learned during the Initial consult I was on the fence regarding her dog and mine being a good match. There was only one way to find out, so we move forward with the next step in the process which is to bring all the dogs together for an off leash meet & greet.

Initially both Deuce and Rio exited their crates with excitement as they always show when there is the possibility of meeting someone new - dog or person.  

My biggest concern in this meet & greet was between Rio and my client’s dog - another adult female. Perhaps you know this, but adult female dogs are very choosy in whom they choose as a close pal. And when the match is not a good one and if they get into a brawl, this can very well be an injurious one. In any case, the first part of the compatibility “test” went well so we proceed with less restricted interactions and “play”. At some point my client’s dog, which frankly did so much better than I expected, was minding her own business when Deuce approached her and began to growl at her. Clearly she was not doing anything “wrong” and Deuce was just being a putts.

I called him off without any further incident, but it was very clear by now that this was not a match made in heaven!

For whatever reason Deuce decided he was not too enamored of this new and possible playmate. As a result of this, I proceeded to explain to my client that her dog had done nothing wrong but that unfortunately the B&T was not an option. Deuce, I said, is the one that is being the problem here…. yep, I did have some egg sliding on my face, if you want to know the truth.

I could have said: “Sure, I will keep your dog and well Deuce is just going to have to lump it” but at what cost? Frankly, I do not want escalation of animosity and now have full-blown fights in my own home.  Besides, I thought: Is it fair to Deuce? After all this is his home too and even though one cannot fully understand why dogs choose their doggy playmates at all times, I chose to let Deuce have what he wanted: Peace, quiet and “things back to normal” … very high on the list of my precious and systematic Border Collie boy.

Once my client left, I kept pondering on my decision. When do we completely “defer” to our dog’s wants and when do we decide they must play by our rules or the need of the moment?
Perhaps the answer to the question above is not always the same or a simple matter to entertain.  I get that. However, the fouled interaction with this potential board & train gave me an opportunity for reflection of the choices in front of me and their consequences not only for my client, her dog, and myself but also for my dogs. This is what I find of value! Taking a step back when considering how our lives in general and our choices in particular might affect our dogs.

Opportunities like this abound: Perhaps the dog does not care for the food - the only one made available day after day. But we feed this food because it is convenient for us. Or how about a dog that is afraid of children but our best friend has "adorable” kids that would love to be friends with our dog whom until now, has not demonstrated full-blown displays of aggression towards kids but instead he hides under the table tail tucked.  

I recently met with a client who in her questionnaire she proclaimed that her dog “was fine” with visitors at the home. There was something about her responses to the questionnaire that raised a red flag for me. Sure enough when they came over to try for agility it was evident to me this dog was not “fine”. She began shaking like a leaf and did anything in her power to avoid me. I wonder, of course, if this is the same reaction guests to the home bring the same kind of response from her dog.

Now, as for my decision, it has been made folks! My dogs are family members to me. Not only that, but they are the family members that need of most care and consideration because their well-being depends on this. So as much as possible my dogs will get what I think they want and need regardless if my choices make someone unhappy or because of this I have to clean the occasional egg off my face.

Playing & Training for Reliability in Predatory Behaviors, part 2

As a continuation to last week’s post, here are some specific ways by which you cannot only give your dog a “legal” outlet for predatory behaviors and up your chances that you will be able to stop your dog from chasing after wildlife, cars, etc.

As I stated last week, predatory behaviors, which in plain English means food- acquisition behaviors, are naturally ingrained in dogs. As with any natural or pre-installed behaviors it is fair to say that if you can’t beat them - join them. We will never extinguish genetically pre-disposed behaviors, so our best chance is to work with them to achieve our goals.

In essence, when we engage our dog in any of the predatory behaviors, and here they are again for your recollection:
Search (find prey, mainly by sense of smell)
Stalk (sneak up as unnoticed as possible)
Rush (move suddenly towards prey)
Chase (run after the fleeing prey)
Bite/hold/shake/kill the prey
Dissect and eat the prey

Or better yet, engage the dog in a few of these we can then teach a lot of self-control and use the behaviors above as reinforcers.

Perhaps you have a dog that is crazy about balls and retrieving. Not just throwing the ball for your dog over and over again, instead have your dog hold still for literally a few seconds just before throwing the ball and then release him to go after it. And yes, having him bring it back to you is always nice so that you can continue playing – but not part of what I am after here.

As your dog gets the hang of what you are asking of him - stillness before exploding after the ball (prey) you will begin to extend the time he must hold still before you dismiss him to go after the ball. Work systematically. Build the behavior slowly, making sure your dog can hold it and waits for you to release him.

Once he is nailing this, sometimes you'll want to ask for more time of stillness and you will also throw some real easy ones with no still time before release.

That is step #1.

As your dog has learned for your release cue and is anticipating being released, pretend you are going to throw the ball for him but just before doing so, use the same verbal cue you have used for the stillness and be ready for your dog to slow down or even stop and turn to look at you. When he does, even if it is nearly a fraction of a second reinforce him by throwing the ball and release him again with enthusiasm.

You will continue to practice this sequence over and over again. Important though that you also just throw the ball for him without asking him to wait, stop, etc. otherwise you might ruin the retrieve in your dog. If you work with a tug, which I so highly recommend, install the “stop” the same way as above, by having your dog wait in stillness (sitting is optional) before you engage in the game again - the reinforcer. If your dog is very much into the tug you can throw the tug a few steps away from you and send your dog to retrieve to bring back to you for more fun. Once this routine is in place, throw the tug farther this time, but ask the dog to STOP as he anticipates you sending him and then release him to get the tug.

With consistency, fun in mind and clear directions, you will slowly build the behavior so that you will now ask your dog to stop when he is already going after the tug/ball.

This is much, much harder than we think so do not be greedy in asking for too much too soon. Work for success: your dog being responsive to your verbal cue close to you and not already in motion.

The farther away the dog is from you, the harder for you effectively have him stop and better yet, come back to you for a release.

Last, let me give you an idea of how I work with Deuce and Rio with either the tug, ball or whippet (a long line with a toy attached at the end of it) so you can have an appreciation of the variety of behaviors we can work on, level of difficulty (really!) and brilliance of the dogs.

Either tug or ball:
Begin the game with the dog only if under self-control (for me sitting is optional, sometimes I take a down or ask for another behavior from them all reflecting self-control.

Play for a few seconds 15 sec approx.
Throw tug away or kick ball
Say: Get it!

Give my verbal cue of STOP, which means that: do not continue moving/chasing…
Release dog with.....

Get It! After they had stopped on their tracks (what a beautiful thing! :))

At times, as my dog is running back to me with a toy or ball to begin the fun again, I might just turn around and either run or pretend I am running away and have the dog chase me and catch up to me. When they do we begin playing again.

I also take turns throwing the tug or ball dismissing my dog to go get it, but then, I call the dog all the way back to me. If you think of it, this is such good practice in the event you come across wildlife that you don’t want your dog chasing. You call, they come and at that point you can leash them or keep them safe otherwise.

Once they come to me I let them go after the toy. The answer is no - in case you are wondering if chasing after wildlife is ever an option for them.

I find this kind of training super fun, challenging for all involved and the best way I can think of in having a fair chance of stopping our dogs from chasing wildlife. Keep in mind that just doing this kind of training once in a while or moving “forward” without building on previous successful steps first will not amount to much. As in life… you reap what you sow…no shortcuts or magic formulas!

Resource Guarding Between Dogs

I am having dinner while both dogs are chewing on their nightly chewy. Rio is sort of waiting for Deuce to finish his so that she can go explore to see if there is anything left that she can have. I notice this from the corner of my eye as Deuce comes into the kitchen with the chewy in his mouth. My eye then catches a pouncing Rio. With the speed of thunder, she grabs the chewy that Deuce has in his mouth and claims it for herself.

Deuce and I remain motionless and incredulous! Rio has never attempted something like this before. She is now lying on one of their beds chewing the item as fast as she can.

I go to her and she is clearly guarding the stupid pig’s ear from me: keeping an eye on me and my movements from the corner of her eye while blocking the item with her shoulder and ready to jump into action should I try to remove the bone.

I know better than to forcefully remove the item from her so I stand there thinking of my next move. I ask her to go to her crate, which she refuses to do.

I get it, she is not going to let me have her precious possession, but I cannot just let her get away with taking the chewy from Deuce as she just did. I am very aware that she can try and bite me if I attempt to take the bone away, so I don’t. This is just a slippery slope. Instead I ask her now to sit on the other bed, which is adjacent to the one where the pig ear is. After a few forceful requests, she does. She is still very agitated and keeping a watchful eye on the treat. I kneel close to the item and I keep telling her to stay. I do not attempt to lift the pig ear, but at the same time I need to have her do something for me so that I can then allow her to chew on the item.

She stays put and as I move the bed with the chewy a bit closer to me, she controls herself and remains in place. I tell her to take it and then I remove myself from the situation.

I direct Deuce to his crate and shower him with other chewies to enjoy. Once Rio has finished her second chewy she acts as if nothing has happened, but I am not happy! I ask Rio to go to her crate again in a more forceful tone of voice than the one I normally use with them. She complies and immediately goes to her crate.

By this time Deuce is done chewing his goodies and I let him out of the crate. Rio, of course, wants out… just in case there are more tasty morsels she can have. She is in the crate and I leave her there giving her a few minutes to settle as the whole previous event was arousing enough for the three of us.

Once out of the crate I decide to give her a bit of a cold shoulder. I do this for the remainder of the evening. The idea here is not so much to “teach her a lesson” as time has gone by between the event and now me giving her the “cold shoulder”, but more than anything because I am angry with her and I now need the time to cool off.

I realize this event cannot repeat itself. Rio needs to learn not to jump at Deuce in the hopes of getting his chewy and she must learn not to guard the stupid chewy from John or me. This type of work is tedious; definitively not my favorite type of training, but it must be done.

Part of the protocol involves trading the valuable object for something at least equally valuable or better yet, more valuable. The ultimate goal here is to teach Rio that surrendering the precious item when asked to do so does not mean she will not get to enjoy it.

As a general note, guarding between dogs is normal dog behavior. Now, it does become a problem when a fight or even a possible fight over a resource might take place. In addition guarding from people is NOT what we want. It is possible to teach dogs to share and depending on what is being guarded, how involved and lengthy the protocol. Some dogs are consummated guarders so in effect every single item (food, bowls, toys, locations, bones, etc.) must be worked on individually. If we do not teach the dog that he needs to relinquish the coveted item and that after doing so he will get it back, he will continue to guard.

In the case of Rio, there are just a few items such as high-value chewies and marrowbones that she guards. For the time being very tight management will take place when they are enjoying their nightly chew as I work towards teaching her that Deuce’s chew is not fair game.

Three practical applications for muzzles

When it comes to using equipment during training or for a dog to wear I tend to be very practical. I realized people have a budget and at times it is easy to rely too heavily on a tool without having the dog really learn the necessary skills.

However there is one piece of equipment that I find myself recommending more and more for my clients - sometimes it is a pre-requisite for training. That piece of equipment is a muzzle. Muzzles have in some circle a “bad rep”. I have heard some clients expressing concerned about how the general public might perceive their dog for wearing a muzzle or they themselves begin to perceive the dog as “dangerous,” “aggressive” etc. There are times, however, when a muzzle is mandatory and the difference between a dog biting someone, a liability, or the dog being put down because of local ordinances after a bite(s).

There are other circumstances in which a muzzle is really a good training tool say at the vet’s office or even in the event of an evacuation should you and your dog have to stay at a local shelter where only muzzled dogs are permitted. For this last reason alone I am working with both my dogs in making sure that the muzzle is not aversive for them but that they learn to be comfortable having one on should the need arise.

The trick is to do the work way before you need to have your dog muzzled so that when you need to do so (if ever) the experience will not be even more traumatizing to the two of you.

But, what kind of muzzle is the right one?

Here is some information that might shed some light and a simple training plan to get you and your dog started with this important training. I recommend using a sturdy basket muzzle versus a muzzle known as a “groomer’s muzzle”. With a basket muzzle your dog will be able to breathe even pant comfortably while wearing it and because of this it is the only safe choice when your dog is doing any kind of physical activity (dogs do not perspire like we do the only way they can regulate body heat is by their paws and through their mouths by panting). A “groomers” muzzle should NEVER be worn by a dog outside the vet clinic or the groomers and again here, having your dog accustomed to it will make the experience much more pleasant for the dog and the staff.

Besides choosing the right kind of muzzle make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for proper sizing and fitting. A muzzle that comes off is no good, so do pay attention. Once you have selected the muzzle follow the plan below of helping your dog associate the muzzle with something really positive. This might not be a weekend project but one worth while pursuing.

Introducing the muzzle.
To make your dog associate the muzzle with good things, get out the yummiest treats you can think of, and follow the steps below. The steps can be done in one session or over several, depending on your dog’s comfort level.

Step 1: Reach through and treat.

• Hold the muzzle up with one hand so your dog notices it.
• Reach through the muzzle with your other hand to give your dog a treat.
• Repeat 3-6 times.
• From now on, every time your dog sees the muzzle, treat him. When the muzzle goes away, stop treating.

Step 2: Nose in the muzzle for treat.

• Cup the muzzle with one hand. Hold the treat so your dog has to put his nose into or through the muzzle to get the treat.
• As soon as the treat is gone, remove the muzzle.
• Repeat until your dog voluntarily sticks his nose into the muzzle to get the treat.
• Now treat several times really quickly so your dog keeps his face in the muzzle for 2-3 seconds.
• Repeat until he can keep the muzzle on for 10 seconds with you delivering a treat every few seconds.

Step 3: Nose in the muzzle and buckle for treat.

• Load the muzzle up with treats. While your dog eats, hold the neck straps behind his neck and apply light pressure. As soon as he finishes the treats, take off the muzzle.
• Next, have your dog put his nose in the muzzle, hold the neck straps, and then start feeding the treats through the muzzle. Repeat this exercise until your dog will keep his head in the muzzle for 3-5 seconds before you start treating.
• Have your dog put his nose in the muzzle, but now close the buckle and unleash a bunch of treats, preferably something extra delicious. When the treats are gone, take off the muzzle.

Step 4: Wearing the muzzle for treat and walk.

• Put the muzzle on and immediately take your dog for a fun walk. Take some treats with you and dish them out along the way.