When it comes to using equipment during training or for a dog to wear I tend to be very practical. I realized people have a budget and at times it is easy to rely too heavily on a tool without having the dog really learn the necessary skills.
However there is one piece of equipment that I find myself recommending more and more for my clients - sometimes it is a pre-requisite for training. That piece of equipment is a muzzle. Muzzles have in some circle a “bad rep”. I have heard some clients expressing concerned about how the general public might perceive their dog for wearing a muzzle or they themselves begin to perceive the dog as “dangerous,” “aggressive” etc. There are times, however, when a muzzle is mandatory and the difference between a dog biting someone, a liability, or the dog being put down because of local ordinances after a bite(s).
There are other circumstances in which a muzzle is really a good training tool say at the vet’s office or even in the event of an evacuation should you and your dog have to stay at a local shelter where only muzzled dogs are permitted. For this last reason alone I am working with both my dogs in making sure that the muzzle is not aversive for them but that they learn to be comfortable having one on should the need arise.
The trick is to do the work way before you need to have your dog muzzled so that when you need to do so (if ever) the experience will not be even more traumatizing to the two of you.
But, what kind of muzzle is the right one?
Here is some information that might shed some light and a simple training plan to get you and your dog started with this important training. I recommend using a sturdy basket muzzle versus a muzzle known as a “groomer’s muzzle”. With a basket muzzle your dog will be able to breathe even pant comfortably while wearing it and because of this it is the only safe choice when your dog is doing any kind of physical activity (dogs do not perspire like we do the only way they can regulate body heat is by their paws and through their mouths by panting). A “groomers” muzzle should NEVER be worn by a dog outside the vet clinic or the groomers and again here, having your dog accustomed to it will make the experience much more pleasant for the dog and the staff.
Besides choosing the right kind of muzzle make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for proper sizing and fitting. A muzzle that comes off is no good, so do pay attention. Once you have selected the muzzle follow the plan below of helping your dog associate the muzzle with something really positive. This might not be a weekend project but one worth while pursuing.
Introducing the muzzle.
To make your dog associate the muzzle with good things, get out the yummiest treats you can think of, and follow the steps below. The steps can be done in one session or over several, depending on your dog’s comfort level.
Step 1: Reach through and treat.
Step 2: Nose in the muzzle for treat.
Step 3: Nose in the muzzle and buckle for treat.
Step 4: Wearing the muzzle for treat and walk.
However there is one piece of equipment that I find myself recommending more and more for my clients - sometimes it is a pre-requisite for training. That piece of equipment is a muzzle. Muzzles have in some circle a “bad rep”. I have heard some clients expressing concerned about how the general public might perceive their dog for wearing a muzzle or they themselves begin to perceive the dog as “dangerous,” “aggressive” etc. There are times, however, when a muzzle is mandatory and the difference between a dog biting someone, a liability, or the dog being put down because of local ordinances after a bite(s).
There are other circumstances in which a muzzle is really a good training tool say at the vet’s office or even in the event of an evacuation should you and your dog have to stay at a local shelter where only muzzled dogs are permitted. For this last reason alone I am working with both my dogs in making sure that the muzzle is not aversive for them but that they learn to be comfortable having one on should the need arise.
The trick is to do the work way before you need to have your dog muzzled so that when you need to do so (if ever) the experience will not be even more traumatizing to the two of you.
But, what kind of muzzle is the right one?
Here is some information that might shed some light and a simple training plan to get you and your dog started with this important training. I recommend using a sturdy basket muzzle versus a muzzle known as a “groomer’s muzzle”. With a basket muzzle your dog will be able to breathe even pant comfortably while wearing it and because of this it is the only safe choice when your dog is doing any kind of physical activity (dogs do not perspire like we do the only way they can regulate body heat is by their paws and through their mouths by panting). A “groomers” muzzle should NEVER be worn by a dog outside the vet clinic or the groomers and again here, having your dog accustomed to it will make the experience much more pleasant for the dog and the staff.
Besides choosing the right kind of muzzle make sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for proper sizing and fitting. A muzzle that comes off is no good, so do pay attention. Once you have selected the muzzle follow the plan below of helping your dog associate the muzzle with something really positive. This might not be a weekend project but one worth while pursuing.
Introducing the muzzle.
To make your dog associate the muzzle with good things, get out the yummiest treats you can think of, and follow the steps below. The steps can be done in one session or over several, depending on your dog’s comfort level.
Step 1: Reach through and treat.
- Hold the muzzle up with one hand so your dog notices it.
- Reach through the muzzle with your other hand to give your dog a treat.
- Repeat 3-6 times.
- From now on, every time your dog sees the muzzle, treat him. When the muzzle goes away, stop treating.
Step 2: Nose in the muzzle for treat.
- Cup the muzzle with one hand. Hold the treat so your dog has to put his nose into or through the muzzle to get the treat.
- As soon as the treat is gone, remove the muzzle.
- Repeat until your dog voluntarily sticks his nose into the muzzle to get the treat.
- Now treat several times really quickly so your dog keeps his face in the muzzle for 2-3 seconds.
- Repeat until he can keep the muzzle on for 10 seconds with you delivering a treat every few seconds.
Step 3: Nose in the muzzle and buckle for treat.
- Load the muzzle up with treats. While your dog eats, hold the neck straps behind his neck and apply light pressure. As soon as he finishes the treats, take off the muzzle.
- Next, have your dog put his nose in the muzzle, hold the neck straps, and then start feeding the treats through the muzzle. Repeat this exercise until your dog will keep his head in the muzzle for 3-5 seconds before you start treating.
- Have your dog put his nose in the muzzle, but now close the buckle and unleash a bunch of treats, preferably something extra delicious. When the treats are gone, take off the muzzle.
Step 4: Wearing the muzzle for treat and walk.
- Put the muzzle on and immediately take your dog for a fun walk. Take some treats with you and dish them out along the way.
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