Slice of Life is inspired by the desire and challenge of living our lives in the moment. Days go by, weeks go by, years... but we can still choose over and over again to look at our own lives in small installments. These installments (or slices of life) can be walks taken in the hills, naps or a glass of Rioja. For me, what makes my slices super meaningful is being able to share with others the moments of my day with dogs in play, training or napping where we're all piled up on the bed.

My slices of life are full of events and experiences that are meaningful to me. As a former professional photographer, I still “see” so many pictures (or vignettes) as I interact with my dogs and the world around me on a daily basis. Most of the time I am not capturing these moments with a camera anymore. Instead, I am just showing up... I must say, that I do miss having a register of events outside of my head so that at my leisure I can relish a past moment as I am transported by a visual or written recollection of days gone by.

With the immediacy of all things digital, perhaps I can have my cake and eat it too. I can continue to do my work as a dog trainer and also register here and there moments of living a life in the company of dogs. I hope you will occasionally take a peek, and that my slices of life transport you in a glee of YOUR own!

Showing posts with label behavior modification. Show all posts
Showing posts with label behavior modification. Show all posts

Sunday, April 16, 2017

Should you muzzle your dog?

While dogs that wear muzzles often carry the stigma of being “bad” or “dangerous” and while that is really unfortunate, muzzles indeed are tools that can often not only keep people and other animals safe, but they can also - believe it or not, improve the life of the dog wearing it.

ANY dog - and I cannot emphasis this enough, can bite and will bite if he/she thinks that biting is the best option to defend itself. Or as the case might be, if in some way biting has been reinforced in the past most likely and under very similar circumstances the dog will bite again if not taught to do something different (a better “choice” -let’s call it). This “better behavior choice” must also address the motivation for the dog biting in the first place.

In other words, biting has proven to work for the dog in the past.  Dogs use strategies that have “worked” for them and abandon those that don’t.  Hey, let’s give them credit!  How often can we say that about ourselves as we appear to stumble on the same mistakes over and over again.

The question as to when to muzzle a dog also should take into consideration legal implications. Of course, this might vary depending on the local dog laws, but what I can say confidently - and without giving legal advice, is that a dog with a bite history under his belt would probably represent more of a liability should the owner be sued than one that is a first-time offender.


Another important consideration in deciding if a dog should use a muzzle and where it’s in relation to a dog having badly hurt or constantly hurt another dog.  It is a fact that dogs will get into fights (just like people get into arguments) however most of these fights are not so severe (and I am not talking here about the emotional toll of being “jumped on”) that warrants the dog going to the vet to get stitches for multiple or profound wounds.  The severity of the bite is in fact one of the many conditions needed to be considered in using muzzles as a management tool. This is especially salient for dogs that live together.

Now, I am not for one second advocating that dogs that have such terrible fights that warrant the ongoing use of a muzzle should remain living under the same roof. Keeping the dogs safe physically and emotionally under this very taxing situation is close to a nightmare and rarely impossible to execute with 100% reliability. Professionally I would advise as to what the best course of action might be for dogs that are injuring one another as a case-by-case basis where a lot of factors need to be understood and addressed.

However, I would most certainly advocate that any dog that has a history of injurious or multiple bites MUST be taught to be comfortable (and even enjoy) wearing a muzzle as part of a behavior modification program, and in many cases a way of life for both the dog and the owner. Of the upmost importance as well is that the dog wears a muzzle when in public.

Now the good news is, that yes, indeed, dogs can learn to enjoy wearing a muzzle. Dogs can learn pretty much anything. I would argue that a dog should not wear a muzzle if the preliminary work that takes to teach him to be comfortable with the muzzle has not been done. What happens is that when most dogs are fitted with a muzzle without a preliminary well thought out plan that is also well executed we are de facto setting up the dog to have a bad association with wearing one and now the quality of life I was referring to has gone by the waste side.

Unfortunately, for the owners of dogs who have already bitten the stigma of having their muzzled dog in public constitutes an ongoing PR nightmare.  My clients whose dogs have bitten someone and now wear muzzles in public tell me that at times strangers comment to them for being “responsible dog owners” (BRAVO! Stranger) while also, strangers are not shy in telling the owner that they “should” put to sleep such dangerous dogs!  Without knowing anything about the dogs, its history, etc.  How unfair this is.

Yes, ignorance about the ethology of dogs is really rampant. Add to the mix, the deep-seeded fear that humans have of animals that can potentially bite and you end up with a judgmental person that does very little to support the efforts of indeed responsible and educated dog guardians.

In my perfect world, we all see dogs for who they really are: A-MAZING!  But also, potentially biting machines that can produce a bite with great force in a split of second. In my perfect world, dogs are taught before they even have a bite on their resume, that muzzles are fun and potentially having to wear one is no big deal, and it might indeed just be the ticket to continued play with other dogs, being walked in public, etc.

Also, in my perfect world, we stop judging people for muzzling their dogs because after all, they are the ones that love that dog, that know that dog and the ones that need our support and admiration instead of our sharp tongues.

Final note: The ONLY type of muzzle that a dog should wear is one that is fitted properly and that allows the dog to pant (literally open its mouth comfortably), take treats and even drink some water. Yes, maybe this will have to be modified by giving the dog water via a water bottle squirting some liquid out instead of the dog drinking out of a water bowl.  Dogs can only regulate their body heat by panting and their paws, so if the dog cannot pant while being exercised- even when it is cool outside, it won’t be able to regulate its body temperature.  You now have a potential emergency situation or worse, the dog dying of heat stroke. The muzzle to use is called (a) basket muzzle (pictured in this entry) and are not the ones that groomers and vets use often in their practice.

Monday, August 8, 2016

MULTIPLE PRONG APPROACH

I can’t speak for any other trainer’s approach in helping their clients and the client’s dogs. However, for most of the behavior modification work that I do - and most of what I do is behavior modification - my approach is a multiple prong approach.

Yes, of course, on occasion the situation is quite simple and there is no need for this approach, but in my experience that is the exception, not the norm.

A multiple approach is needed because behavior always happens in a particular context. In the world, so to speak. So while the behavior might be very specific there are always multiple factors that contribute to the behavior being reinforced and because it is being reinforced the behavior will continue.


Let’s take, for example, a dog that aggresses at people when being walked on leash. For almost any case where there is aggressive behavior directed at people or other dogs, I will recommend the following:

The dog should be fitted with a proper head halter. This is especially important if the dog is a large dog. Not only do head-halters, when fitted properly AND used properly, allow my client a better chance at re-directing the dog if there is an instant where the dog might aggress, it is also quite frankly an important factor in being proactive should the worse case-scenario take place. And with that being said, there is now the potential of being liable if the client gets sued.

The second piece of equipment that I would recommend in most cases is a calming cap. The calming cap is a “cap” of a soft almost translucent material that covers the eyes of the dog when it is fitted properly. As the name implies it can “calm” a dog down because the visual stimulus, in my example, a person is not so obvious to the dog.

As with most tools we use on dogs, this one too requires a proper fit, use, as well as a period of desensitization, so that the dog is comfortable and accepting of the cap.

Now that the tools are sorted out, the behavior modification can take place. Do keep in mind that the above recommendations are really not behavior modification per se, but very important tools that will help in the managing of the problem and give support to the efficiency of the behavior modification.

Here then is where the “fun” begins! Teaching both dog and owner different behaviors that will either serve as confidence building exercises, “do this instead of that” behaviors… look at your “parent” instead of "lunging at a passerby” is a typical one as well as emergency strategies.

I will mention here that I do NOT teach a “watch” (or “look” at) as many trainers do. Instead, I want the dog to be able to see what concerns him - this makes it less scary.  Only then do I want the dog to look at the owner or perform a behavior that will prevent him from aggressing.

The owner, of course, must also come along for the work! In relevance to my example above, the owner must be able to redirect the dog away from what concerns the dog.  So there is indeed learning for both parties. They are a team and they must respond as a team.

What pretty much always derails a good training & behavior modification plan is when a client takes the recommendations as mere suggestions which they can decide to implement if they “like” them. Yes, indeed very much part of human nature. However, the problem in second guessing a well laid out behavior modification plan, which by the way should always have a management component to it. Those measures and recommendations are always there for a reason: experience from the part of the dog “pro” and know-how.

Going back to team work, the owner of the dog (client) and trainer must also work as a team.  My favorite people to work with are the ones that let me know when they are feeling ambivalent, overwhelmed or else about a recommendation. Not because they need my “permission” to veer course, but because I can best find an alternative - if available - or really support them as needed in order for us to move forward and reach their goals.

In essence if you are calling a “pro” to do anything for you… fix your car, put tile in your bathroom AND, above else, work with a live being, please listen carefully and be ready to follow up.  Otherwise it begs these questions: Do you really trust the “pro”? And are you really ready to do what it takes to reach your goals?

Monday, June 22, 2015

When to Intervene?

For some unknown reason Deuce’s guarding of certain objects, such as his precious ball, has gone up in frequency. I noticed just the other night that he began to vocalize in his typical high-pitched tone when he was lying on the couch next to me as Rio was cruising by. For the most part when this happens Rio gets the message as she slinks away or removes herself from the object diffusing the interaction. In other words, showing good doggie manners.

So the question is: When should one intervene in doggy-affairs and when should we allow them to “figure it out”? From my perspective, there are a few things to consider in order to make the correct decision. We must pay attention to what happened just before one of the dogs begins to communicate with the other that such and such thing is theirs to keep? Or, to notice what kind of resource is the coveted one and under what specific circumstances.

The second observation that I like to make is to ascertain the reaction of the dog at the receiving end of the threat. Specifically again, how is this dog responding?

Is he or she “getting the message”? Will choose to stand its ground? A potential dog fight as a result of this? Is the dog feeling emotionally “flatten”? If so, is their confidence diminishing? Since behavior never occurs in a vacuum, but instead it is always context specific looking at these details makes perfect sense.


Yes, it is also true that behavior is always in flux. I can see this so clearly when it comes to people forming habits. For example: someone watching a favorite show at dinnertime and now a new habit of eating while watching TV is born. Or hanging out with a particular person and suddenly we move on with our lives wondering why we spent so much time with this person or doing a particular activity.

I was pondering the above as Deuce growled at Rio when they were both eating their meal, which they done previously hundreds of times without incident. Now, Rio after hearing Deuce growling,  stopped eating and quietly exited the laundry room. I did not hear Deuce growl but it just took one look at Rio’s demeanor for me to realize Deuce had growled at her as she was chowing down her food.

What has changed in Deuce’s mind? Nothing seemed out of the ordinary nor have I seen any other changes in their relationship to warrant concern.

The truth is that at times the antecedents of a behavior are very obvious and sometimes they require close observation. At times too, we are not going to know what the motivation behind the behavior is- and this is the case with Deuce’s escalating his sometimes threatening display towards Rio while there are both minding their peas and eating their meals.

I decided to monitor their meals more closely to see if I could decipher what, if anything, is different for Deuce and to make sure that I had Rio’s back. So I stuck around once I lowered their food bowls and watched from the sidelines. If Deuce began to eat and they both appeared relaxed I moved on. But if this was not the case I would admonish Deuce and stick around until at least Rio was done with her meal.

A few days ago, I did hear Deuce emit a sound while they were both eating so I walked in the room and just stood behind Rio and in between both dogs. Rio was looking away from Deuce. I guess she felt my “support” because she continued to eat without missing a beat.

Deuce’s funny quirks might pass without a major incident, but it is also possible that it might escalate in which case I must re-think their eating habits.

The take-home message for me and I hope for everyone who has more than one dog (or more than one pet at home) is to constantly evaluate the status of the relationship between the pets and to be ready to make any changes so that all pets live as stress free as possible in their home. It is also much easier to keep things sailing smoothly than righting a relationship that has gone wrong.

I would argue that just like we can get into bad habits- such as eating our meals mindlessly in front of the TV, our dogs could get into behavioral patterns (are they also habits?). Of course, not all behavioral patterns are “bad” or undesirable. However, as the case might be, our jobs - as I see it, is to keep an eye  out for any change away from the “norm” and to make whatever adjustments are necessary (as easy as relocating a food-bowl or as complicated as engaging in behavior modification of some sort) so that the quality of life of the animals in our care is not compromised.