The Importance of Management

Part of being a responsible pet parent implies that we manage our pups to keep them out of trouble. Trouble could mean a dog running amok into traffic via the front door, a fearful dog finding himself too close to a “scary” stimulus, dogs chasing the family cat and, yes, destroying our precious property.

Management means that we control the environment so that the dog does not get to practice behaviors that are plain dangerous or that we need to modify. As such, any good behavior modification plan must have a management component integrated into it.

From a physiological stand point - not only in a “strict” behavior sense- (as if we could really separate these two…) when our dogs get to practice undesirable behaviors, they get so much better at them. It really boils down to muscle memory and neural pathways either being created or strengthening.

As a result of a dog practicing unwanted behaviors, the behaviors also get stronger because if the dog is engaging in them, it means that there is something reinforcing about them for the dog. And as you well know (or I hope you do)… whatever behavior gets reinforced will go up in frequency.
Some situations are really simple to manage once the person has identified the problem and makes a good effort in following through with a protocol.

Say for example, leashing a dog that is not fully trained every single time the person steps out the front door with the dog. The chances of the dog running away are almost nil! Or managing the dog when we cannot fully watch them in their crate – once crate trained.

There are other instances, as well, where management is really tricky and it requires some problem solving in order to set some contingencies in place.

Case in point: Rio dashing out the front door whenever she thinks there is a visitor. I don't have to worry about traffic as there is none and we have a fenced in area.

Even though she is getting so much better at controlling herself when someone has come home to see us, we still need to manage her “hellos”.

As a result of this, the other day I tried an interesting technique with really surprising results. I was expecting my accountant so just before she was due to arrive, I placed just outside our front door some really tasty salmon treats. They were so tasty that my own mouth began to water.

A few minutes later, Rio spotted Judi via the front window and she wanted to rush out the door to say hi.

As Judi was approaching the front door I opened it and saw Rio beeline- nose to the ground taking in not only the aroma of the salmon but munching on the treats. It was hilarious to watch because even Judi responded by complaining to Rio that she had found something more interesting than her! After the treats were gone, Judi got a much more settled “hello” from Rio.

Ah, front door management … such a big headache for most folks… so in next week’s post I will give you some ideas you can try at home. See you then, I hope!

Does Snake-Avoidance Training Work?

In many parts of the country, Spring is the opening of months for snake sightings and dog owners the world over concern over their dogs being bitten by one.

Some folks submit their dogs on a yearly basis to Snake-avoidance training. Their rational being that it's best to have their dog zapped in the presence of a snake while learning to avoid them than having a snake bite their dog.

Sure, no one wants his or her dog hurt or killed as a result of a snake bite, and if you are anything like me, even the thought of a snake will send your body into revolting mode. It is during “snake season” when I really wish I lived in Ireland!

I have heard over the years from clients that their dog actually did learn to avoid a snake as a result of the Snake avoidance training - thus a bite being prevented. And while I don’t deny that some dogs might learn this lesson… the procedure itself is not only real bad news for the dog (and their caring owner) but not as reliable as one might think.

The goal of the procedure as I understand it from websites and my client’s accounts is aimed at shocking the client’s dog in the presence of a (safe) snake. One that is kept at a distance or the venom extracted. Again the theory goes that the dog will get hurt badly by the administration of the shock, and as a result, he will learn altogether to avoid snakes. Period. The problem is that while the procedure appears to make sense, it is much more complicated than one might think to pull off “in real life”. Here is why:

First off: In order to create a negative association with the snake one has to make sure that:

1. 1. The presentation of the stimulus (the snake) is salient enough and presented in a timely manner in order for the dog to associate – without any doubt the stimulus with the pain of the electric shock. I say without any doubt because it is not easy to set a training/learning environment in which we are in total control of the presentation of the stimulus and the association we are trying to achieve. If one was doing this type of training in the lab that would be one thing, but in the “real” world there are hundreds of other potential associations a dog can make with the pain of the shock besides the target stimulus: the snake.
2. Now pretending that the above has been taken care of, our next goal is for the aversive (something that causes avoidance or fear in an animal) - in our case the electric shock is SO SEVERE that only one exposure is needed to get the message across to the dog. The problem is that very few individuals really have the oomph to hurt an animal this bad. Multiple presentations of higher intensity of shock/pain might be more humane, but it is not conducive to the learning that we are after. If, however, the pain is so severe that the dog has learned to avoid a snake we must decide for ourselves if we are comfortable submitting our dog to such level of pain by a stranger.
3. Aversives have fallouts. If the result of the shock has been severe pain the dog might in the future avoid altogether a snake. Or it might very well attack it. Not all dogs respond the same way while in the presence of a stimulus they now associate with pain. The truth is that there is no way of knowing with absolute certainty how a dog will react.
4. Dogs do not generalize well. This means that if the context is even slightly different from the initial learning context the dog will not necessarily respond in the same manner. This is one of the reasons why training any animal requires of multiple learning scenarios and practice under those precise conditions.
5. So again, your dog might avoid a snake under similar circumstances as the avoidance training but he might not generalize that learning experience with a new encounter, and guess what? There is no way to know if he will or not with absolute certainty.

So how can we best keep our dogs safe from a potential snakebite?

There is unfortunately no full-proof methodology, but here are some ideas to consider instead of the Snake-Aversive training.

Set up a similar situation with a snake decoy that looks like a “real snake” pair that with the hiss of a rattler – you can download it online.

Practice recalling your dog from 20 ft. from your decoy and offer your dog some very high value reinforcer – something truly memorable.

Practice in many different scenarios. Practice having the decoy snake moving (not sure how to accomplish that with a decoy, but perhaps there is such a thing out there…)

Pay close attention to the visual stimulus of how snakes might look to your dog and practice again to call your dog away. A stretched out snake, coiled up etc.

This procedure might again work or not, for the same reasons that setting up a training scenario where we are in absolute control of the stimulus is difficult- even when one understands contingencies and principle of animal learning - but at least you are not hurting your dog badly and dealing with the very probable behavioral and welfare issues that working with aversives presents. I cannot say this loud enough! However, if the set-up is well thought out and practiced heavily, I believe the chances of recalling your dog from a snake just went up- way up. The catch is, of course, that you need to be aware of the location of the snake too.

Yuck!

During snake season – roughly April to November here in the Southwest consider other forms of physical and mental stimulation for your dog. Think of it as cross training! The change not only will most likely keep your dog safe, but we all know of the importance in a change of routine for mental stimulation and overall fitness. Here are my recommendations:

• Avoid having your dog off-leash and instead take long urban walks while you and your dog practice some basic obedience skills. Allow your dog to sniff all he wants; great mental-stimulation.
• Consider taking a class. My clients do tell me that after class their dogs are more tired than when they go hiking.
• Teach your dog to retrieve; such as catching a freesbie.
• Play with your dog tug or with a whippet.
• Pull out the food-dispensing toy that you have been too lazy to fill for your dog to work with.
• Learn clicker training so that you can work with your dog in the comfort of your home.
• If you really want to hike with your dog, use a long line (first learn how to use one safely- email me if you would like this information) so that you have a better chance of recalling your dog should you encounter a snake.

The good news is that when the temperature begins to drop you and your pup can head back out to the mountains in appreciation of a new routine.

Finally, if you are concernd about snakes in your own property, consider fencing a part or all of your property. There is some good information online on fencing options. Look for: snake-fencing. Putting up a fence might be expensive and lots of work but worth every penny in peace of mind.

Under-trained. Period.

I am heading towards our front gate to retrieve a package. And I am also waiting with Deuce and Rio for a friend of mine that is bringing her dog over to play.

She shows up a bit earlier and spots the package. With the front gate now wide-open she retrieves the package.

I guess Deuce either recognized the car or decides to rush to the car to say "hi" to whomever might be there. I call at him and he kind of acknowledges me, but keeps heading down the driveway.

I watch as he approaches the car and now my friend is trying to negotiate for the gate, and Deuce coming in.

Rio is next to me so I decide to stay put. I call out to Deuce one more time and he now heads back my way up the driveway. I tell him that he is a good “lad”, but the reality it's that I am not happy at all with him rushing to the gate.

For now, I concentrate on greeting my friend and reunite the dogs so that the playing can begin, but I realize that Deuce’s over-friendly disposition (which I love) is getting the better of him and that we need much more practice with recall (come when called) and with distractions such as people (added for good measure).

The reality is that one can make all the “excuses” as to why the dog did not respond as we had wanted, but the bottom line is that the dog is undertrained, period!

Yes, of course, Deuce comes to me hundreds of times. I will say that he will come to me 9 out of 10 times when I call him. But the thing is that in order for training to be reliable, we need to incorporate the stimulus (situation) where we want the dog to perform successfully.

Behavior is always context specific. Even smallish changes can throw the dog for a loop. Now, with this in mind, it behooves us to train where we want the behavior to take place. To make matters even more challenging, dogs do not generalize well and this is why we must practice where it matters.

In addition to the above reasons, it is accurate to point out that circumstances (or criteria in dog training lingo) need to also be taken into account when teaching behaviors and expecting the dog to perform. For example: If Deuce and I had been standing farther away from the distraction, and if my friend had not taken so long at the gate retrieving the package, the chances of Deuce not go towards the gate would have gone up. In addition, if indeed, he recognized the car or was able to smell his
doggy-friend from afar this in itself makes the temptation much more powerful.

So what is one to do?

First off recognize that the dog is not trying to defy us, being stubborn or “dominant” he just had a stronger reinforcer to respond to at that given moment under those circumstances/ context.

If I want to see success in situations like this, I need to practice many times with Deuce in similar situations. To do so, I need to design a training plan that will make it easy for Deuce to be successful. If he is successful and recalls back to me then I can reinforce him. If a behavior gets reinforced over and over again a history of reinforcement is built - sort of like having money in the bank that you can withdraw against. The more money one has the more money one can spend - so the chances of that behavior taking place in the future (under similar circumstances) just went up, way up!

Situations like this are stumbling blocks that we need to appreciate as areas where we need to work with more diligence and clarity. Blaming the dog achieves nothing; training under specific circumstances does. Now, can you guess what I am going to be doing this Friday? Setting up a
scenario where both Deuce and Rio can recall back from my friend and her dog. Ah, yes... stay tuned for the next "report".

Beep, Beep, Beep

Talk about Pavlov and associate conditioning! Bells and everything! Okay, first let me give you some background information about the state of affairs. After having injured my foot at the beginning of the month, now I have a heavy duty brace that by just one look at it I get queasy. I think to myself "how am I going to get this thing on and off?"

I just got it yesterday afternoon. I am suppose to wear it all the time (except when showering and sleeping) for 3 weeks. Okay no problem, I can do that if it means not having to have my tendon get worse where I need to face an operation.

So here I am tucked in bed, half asleep. All dogs happily sleeping on their beds-Louie (our foster) in his crate. When suddenly at 3 freaking am (why is it always 3 am when these things happen? Why do dogs get injured on Sundays when your “regular” vet is closed and you have to go to the ER vet? Why? Why?) the motion sensor in the house goes off! OMG!! It is soooo loud. Why is it going off? The alarm is not even activated? We just moved into our new home in Feb. There is still a lot about this home that I don’t yet know. Like where to “deactivate” this stupid alarm. John out of town… of course, just the same - when it is three in the morning something happens and dogs always get injured on Sundays.

Deuce, Laika and Louie are all freaked out… Do something mom, fix it! I am hoping out of bed, remembering not to put weight on my right foot. Trying to decide what to do next: put on the brace or take the dogs outside… I limp half-naked to get the dogs outside, I forget Louie duh! So, I go back into my bedroom and open the crate: Louie let’s go outside as I put my brace on so fast I cannot even believe it!! Ahh, that powerful adrenaline, you gotta to love it.

As I walked now around my home empowered with my super brace on, I pray to all my mighty powers (and I really have some SUPER might powers) to help me deactivate the never activated alarm. Laika has come in and is now following me around shaking with her tailed tucked. Deuce is M.I.A., I guess still outside with Louie. The alarm finally goes silent. I call Deuce and Louie and began (cheerfully as if this is what I looovee to do at 3 in the morning) dispensing calming treats in the shape of bones to all the dogs as if they were cheap flyers and my dogs being passer-byes on a busy street corner.

I think this will do it. These calming doggie aids are strong… I should have one too! I am kind of still raddled inside. But here you have it. The dogs want NOTHING to do with their beds, which is where they were laying when the alarm went off. Not even Deuce, my matter-of-fact, always cool and mellow Border Collie. He will not go into his favorite comfy-doughnut shape bed. Laika is not having it either. No happy voice is making her go back to her bed. And Louie? Where the heck is he? I (sort) of walk around the house looking for him… I call out just to find him laying in the bathroom that has the doggie-door and thus immediate access to outside. He is half way snuggled into a ball and is not budging. Perhaps the smartest of the lot, he is not going to risk going back to the scene of the crime.

Classical conditioning works by pairing: a stimulus (in my case and Pavlov’s) a noise. In his case, food after the bell in my case: most likely the dog beds. So here you have it: Dogs laying on their beds (Louie inside his crate) and all hell breaks loose… now they won’t go near their beds- as if electrified! I say most likely because Pavlov- who was working in a lab setting, could control very nicely the pairing: Bell rings, dogs get food and after whatever amount of pairings… viola the dogs are salivating (in anticipation of the food) once the stimulus of the bell is presented.

In “real” life, the pairings are not so clean. One of our biggest problems when wanting to modify behavior (counter-conditioning) is that we must be diligent in establishing this strong pairing. There are so many competing stimuli in the environment that who knows half the time which is the most salient stimulus for the animal.

What I do know is that neither one of the dogs is wanting to rest on their beds. Instead, Deuce and Laika are giving me this look and I know they want to crawl with me on mine. Ah…. I love my dogs but when it comes to sleeping… the bed is mine! Louie is still laying in the same place… “no freaking way I am going back to that crate…”

Once my dogs are on my bed and dosing off, I lay awake- on a sliver of bed that I get. I dare not too move too much afraid the motion sensor will go-off again. I am thinking: I sure hope I can “fix” the problem of the dogs having associated the beds with the scary alarm. Darn too because Louie was now going inside his crate on his own accord- even putting himself to sleep when he was tired in the evenings. Just before the alarm fiasco, I didn’t have to coax him to go in by throwing some tasty treats inside the crate. I was so happy that I could pass him on to the best suitor with his fabulous crate training skills. Take note, this is a dog that could not handle any sort of enclosure when he first came to our home…

As I lay in the bed I am also thinking that why on this am did the alarm had to go off when I had such a busy day… two trainings sessions: one with an aggressive dog that was trying to nail me shall I make the wrong way, the other a new client… oh no… And then I am thinking also about placing delicious slivers of chicken and hot dogs all over the beds… come find it… look what just fell out of the sky…. here on your bed, inside your crate…beep, beep, beep.